SIGHT TO SEE
RAINBOW RIVER , COLOMBIA
Time it just right , and this remote Colombian river will reveal its kaleidoscope of colors , says Emily Lush
In central Colombia ’ s Meta department , three unique ecosystems — the Andes , the Amazon and the Orinoco Basin — coalesce to produce an area of outstanding biodiversity . While some flock to the remote Serrania de la Macarena mountains to see its 500 species of bird or 50 varieties of orchid , the national park ’ s biggest draw is undoubtedly Caño Cristales ( Rainbow River ), a 62-mile-long water channel dubbed the ‘ river that ran away from paradise .’
It does indeed look supernatural : at certain times of the year , the fast-flowing river appears vibrant shades of red , white , green , black and yellow . While the official color count is five , visitors report observing dozens of hues , from deep magenta to iridescent amber . It ’ s the endemic plant Rhyncholacis clavigera ( a riverweed rather than an algae ) that ’ s responsible for the phenomenon ; exposure to different levels of sunlight and unique mineral compositions cause it to change its appearance . The ‘ liquid rainbow ’ it paints is only visible after the rainy season , typically between May and November . For peak saturation , visit between July and October .
The Caño Cristales was first documented in 1969 when a group of cattle farmers stumbled on the riverweed . Closed to tourists for several decades as a result of Colombia ’ s internal conflict , Macarena National Park is now one of the region ’ s biggest attractions , with a daily cap established to ensure the longevity of its peculiar flora . Visitors must obtain a permit before embarking on a three- to four-day tour of the river system , where 10 newly mapped ecotourism trails allow for easy exploration of the river and its tributaries .
Swimming is only permitted in designated areas , and bathers are prohibited from wearing deodorant , sunscreen or bug spray .
ESSENTIALS
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Because of its isolated location and fragile nature , visits to Macarena National Park must be accompanied by a licensed guide . Multi-day expeditions along the Rainbow River — traveling either by foot or by boat — can be organized through outfitters in the nearest town of La Macarena , a 90-minute flight from Bogota . image : getty
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