Postcards Spring 2024 US | Page 26

ON THE TRAIL
Guido Berlucchi
Start where it all began at this historic property in Borgonato , where in 1961 a visionary vintner named Franco Ziliani invented sparkling Franciacorta by using Champagne ’ s Metodo Classico to elevate the local table wines . Now the region ’ s largest producer , Guido Berlucchi boasts 1,273 acres of vineyards , producing 4.5 million bottles of Franciacorta DOCG annually — a process overseen by Ziliani ’ s three sons . A tasting here includes a visit to the 17th-century Palazzo Lana , where you ’ ll gather around the Botticino marble fireplace before venturing down into the cellar to behold a bottle of 1961 vintage .

WINERIES IN FRANCIACORTA

Extending from the southern shore of Lake Iseo toward the city of Brescia , the hills of Franciacorta yield some of Italy ’ s finest sparkling wines , finds Emily Lush

Nourished by morainic soils and fanned by a cooling Alpine breeze from the Val Camonica , Lombardy ’ s Franciacorta district — located an hour ’ s drive from Milan — has been cultivated by vintners since at least the eighth century . Yet it only received DOC status in 1967 ( later upgraded to DOCG status exclusively for its sparkling wines ). Made from a blend of chardonnay , pinot nero and pinot bianco grapes
and aged on the lees ( dead yeast ) for a minimum of 18 months , Franciacorta spumantes are known for being deep , dry and complex . They differ from prosecco in that the second fermentation occurs in the bottle rather than inside a pressurized tank . The traditions associated with Franciacorta wine are scrupulously upheld by a few dozen family-run estates . Here are five that are well worth knowing about .
Ca ’ del Bosco
A giant gilded sundial greets visitors at the gates of Ca ’ del Bosco , an estate in Erbusco where wine and art dovetail . Crafted by local sculptor Arnaldo Pomodoro , it ’ s one of many site-specific works designed to echo the beauty of the vineyards , first planted in 1968 . After the meandering sculpture garden , the vaulted tunnels of the barrel room feel all the more snug . It ’ s here visitors can taste Franciacorta Cuvée Prestige DOCG , five reds and a pair of whites , all made with traditional varietals .
illustrations : Lis watkins
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