weekender |
|||
image : alamy |
Above : The view from the San Juan
Water and Beach Club Hotel
|
farther afield , in the south of El Yunque , it ’ s worth venturing to the La Canoa Falls to see the Taíno petroglyphs etched by the Indigenous peoples of the forest . Once you ’ ve tired of lofty treetops and orchiddappled forest floors , drive half an hour to Laguna Grande to get ready for the best light show in Puerto Rico .
After pausing to crunch on deep-fried tostones ( crisp plantain ) dipped in garlic sauce or a comforting bowl of pollo guisado ( traditional chicken stew ) at a local restaurant in Fajardo , head out to the Laguna Grande to secure a kayak . Just before the sun sets , embark on a gentle paddle between the low hanging boughs of the Red Mangrove Forest . It takes around half an hour to reach the Bioluminescent Lagoon , where every stroke of the paddle sets off a spiral of sapphire sparkles . Caused by billions of plankton swelling on the water ’ s surface , the ripple of a hand drifting in the water or the flap of a passing fish is enough to cast a mini ‘ Milky Way ’ over the lagoon . Once you ’ ve paddled back
|
along the glittering streams , head back to San Juan , around a 90-minute drive from Laguna Grande .
DAY 3
After an active day in Puerto Rico ’ s inland forests , it ’ s time to decompress . Recover on one of the sandy beaches that surround San Juan . To stick close to the urban centre of the city , head across the bridge from Old San Juan to the upscale , beachfront neighbourhood of Condado . A laid-back spot teeming with lounging locals , it offers fine sands and gentle waves , alongside an array of seafront hotels , restaurants and bars . Dine alongside the Boricuas , as locals are known , at lunch at the unassuming Orozco ’ s , where the mofongo is mixed with octopus tendrils or generous chunks of lobster . Alternatively , opt for gouda and papaya croquetas and succulent sea bass at the sleek Mario Pagán ’ s . To add a final special experience to your weekend , book a table at 1919 ahead of time . Its five-course
|
spring 2024 • 21 |