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images : alamy |
Clockwise from left : Juan Diego Falls in El Yunque Rainforest ; the common coqui , a frog native to Puerto Rico
Previous pages , clockwise from top left : Brightly coloured buildings in Old San Juan ; pink umbrella art installation on Fortaleza Street in Old San Juan ; a beach walkway in San Juan ; straw hats for sale in Old San Juan ; Condado Beach ; stone archways in Castillo San Cristobal ; pistachio ice cream ; the Puerto Rican flag on the door of an abandoned building ; the distinctive dome of the San Juan Cemetery
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Appetite sated , set out east to Castillo San Cristobal , the fortress that has flanked the other side of the old city since 1634 . As well as offering its own fascinating military history , the castle is the best place to stop for a panoramic view over Old San Juan and its Caribbean Sea border . From there , head back into the bustle of the inner city along colourful Calle de la Fortaleza , with pit stops to window shop for local handicrafts , ornate jewellery and freshly rolled cigars .
Once the hunger hits again , Café Caleta is only a short walk away . A cafe by day and bar / restaurant by night , it serves up fresh fish ceviche-style , albondigas puertorriqueñas ( spiced meatballs ) and cured pork shoulder spiced with coffee . Add an accompanying nightcap — an evening in San Juan isn ’ t complete without the rich blended rum ever present in Puerto Rico .
DAY 2
It only takes 45 minutes to drive from San Juan to the only tropical rainforest in the U . S . — El Yunque . Miles of accessible hiking
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trails weave through the mountainous terrain , which are bordered by dense thickets of towering tabonuco trees . The hiking routes range in difficulty , with options available for strollers and climbers alike . Take a short jaunt down the Angelito Trail to reach the rejuvenating waters of the Río Mameyes , then ascend the viewing platform on the 90-minute Mount Britton Tower route for panoramic forest vistas , or tackle the more challenging Los Picachos trail — it ’ s worth it for the vantage over the cloud-dusted mountain forest . Hikers hoping to push their limits should take the El Yunque Trail to watch the ecology shift with the altitude or the El Toro track to reach one of the highest points in the Luquillo mountains .
Refuel at El Yunque Rainforest Cafe , which is accessible by road , and which serves freshly fried empanadillas , tortillawrapped carnitas and smoothies blended with local forest fruits . After , explore the nearby waterfalls : La Mina , which cascades from 30 feet , is only a 10-minute walk from the cafe and has a cooling lagoon filled with recovering hikers at its base . Though slightly
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spring 2024 • 19 |