SAN JUAN , PUERTO RICO
A domestic hop to the Puerto Rican capital offers up jungle trails , tranquil beaches and a vibrant , UNESCO-listed historical quarter , says SJ Armstrong
DAY 1 images : getty ; awl images
Immerse yourself in Old San Juan as soon as you arrive . Stroll the cobbled lanes , flanked by pastel-coloured , classic Spanish townhouses and flower-laden patios , starting out on Calle San Sebastián . Take some time to peer into the niche boutiques and small art galleries spaced out along the popular street , which will carry you almost the whole way to San Juan ’ s fortified frontier . Castillo San Felipe del Morro , which has guarded the islet of Old San Juan since its construction started in 1539 , feels as though it sprung from the rocks on Puerto Rico ’ s northern front , its historic walls whipped by the wind and stained the shade of the crag . Start at La Fortaleza and climb between six levels of defensive walls to see where the
Spanish fended off the Dutch , the English and slews of raiding pirate ships . Today , it ’ s the official residence of the governor of Puerto Rico , and it has been since the 16th century . The complex is large and multifaceted — take one of the regular tours run in English and Spanish , or lounge on its sloping lawn and watch as families gather to play impromptu games or fly kites .
Double back some 15 minutes to rest your legs at El Jibarito , a local favourite serving up traditional Puerto Rican dishes . Grab some pasteles ( tamale-style mashed plantain and pork wrapped in banana leaves and steamed ) or indulge in a side dish of mofongo ( fried plantain mashed by hand ) doused with garlic-laced butter . spring 2024 • 17