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Stairs in the streets
of Mar Mikhael
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ESSENTIALS
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When to go : For pleasant weather , April and May or October and November are the best months to visit . Currency : Lebanese Lira or USD . Make
sure to bring cash with you though . Most places will not accept credit or debit cards . U . S . dollars are best and can be exchanged at most Western Unions city-wide . $ 1 = 1,523 LBP Language : Arabic . French is also
widely spoken . Getting around : Ride-sharing apps
like Bolt and Uber are easiest . You can also go by foot or hail a service . They ’ re clearly demarcated by red licence plates and are sometimes the cheaper option depending on the weather or time of day . But they run select circuits , which your destination may or may not be on , so plan accordingly .
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The bar is called Anise , a dimly lit enclave that leans on a Prohibition-era aesthetic . It ’ s easy on the eyes , and the staff ’ s knowledge and expertise is extensive . Beirut has long been known as one of the Middle East ’ s best nightlife destinations . Maybe it ’ s not a stiff competition in the largely sober region , but its local mixologists are still dedicated to keeping the mood up in the unpredictable city . Despite that , I decide to keep it simple with a classic cocktail . I keep it light — I ’ m dining at the inimitable Varouj after . |
Varouj is another Beirut institution — it deserves a whole tome of its own . With just five tables , this intimate , shoebox-sized restaurant has seen all classes of Lebanese society walk through its doors . I ’ m ordering a spread — marinated sheep testicles , the meat of several small birds , offal and more . It ’ s traditional Armenian fare , especially enjoyable paired with some manti ( small dumplings ) and muhammara ( roasted red pepper dip ). Each bite is a reminder of Beirut ’ s countless diasporic communities , and the food that developed in the mix . |
BOOK IT NOW
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Travel from Beirut to Amman , Jordan to begin your 11-day Holy Lands & Petra cruise on Star Legend , Windstar Cruises ’ newly renovated , allsuite yacht . The itinerary takes you to Christian Holy Lands , Petra ’ s sandstone facades and Greek temples before concluding in Athens , Greece . Departs 25 October 2023 .
CALL US
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To book your trip to Lebanon , contact our travel agency .
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image : alamy . ILLUSTRATION : LIS WATKINS |
30 • pos t c a rds |