lebanon
Bourj Hammoud began , in fact , as a refugee settlement , but over the decades it became a bustling micro metropolis ; it ’ s now known as Beirut ’ s ‘ Little Armenia .’ images : getty
Sliced za ’ atar flatbread and yoghurt sauce topped with sumac
Below : a street scene in Hamra , Beirut one of their most crucial refuges . It began , as a refugee settlement , but over the decades it became a bustling micro metropolis ; it ’ s now known as Beirut ’ s “ Little Armenia .” Here — among the old men in hats playing tawlet ( backgammon ) and the children jostling their way through the throngs of mopeds carrying assorted deliveries — my day begins .
In the morning , the edges of the city are softer , and on this clear day the sunlight spills onto the buildings . I choose to walk down Marash and Arax streets , the enclave ’ s two main arteries . No matter how much time I spend here , I ’ m still thrilled by the abundance of shops selling loofahs , sundry goods and vine leaves . I head to select from Bourj Hammoud ’ s finest establishments , its restaurants and furns ( bakeries ). The best choices are Ghazar Bakery and Hovig Bakery , both offering excellent fare .
They serve a quintessential on-the-go Lebanese breakfast : a manakeesh ( savoury pastry ) with its myriad toppings — cheese and za ’ atar , or spinach and keshek ( yoghurt fermented with bulgur , often mixed with chilli paste and sesame seeds ). It ’ s possible to pick one up from outposts all over the city and the debate over which is the best is never-ending . But I ’ m in Bourj Hammoud , and around me the breakfasts are vast and varied . From the window of Ghazar Bakery , situated on a car ’ s-width back street , I watch as steaming lahm bi ajeen ( literally translated to meat with dough ) is dished up to ravenous diners . Some people like to call it the local version of a pizza , but lahm bi ajeen is more of a savoury pastry .
SPRING 2023 • 25