// MUMBAI

he fish cutlets beckoned . Coated crisply with rava ( semolina ), they lay stacked on a small plate in a glass cupboard . And I really wanted them . At the counter , I conveyed this to the owner , an old man who didn ’ t look pleased that I interrupted his quiet time . His response is brief : “ Those aren ’ t for sale — they ’ re for our lunch .” I leave C D ’ Souza , stunned .

I ’ m standing in a lane in South Mumbai , outside a small restaurant that ’ s very popular with Goans . A restaurant with food so good , they keep some aside for themselves .

I ’ m Goan . Goa is a small state on the western coast of India , a favorite tourist destination , popular for its good food , affordable alcohol , beautiful landscapes , culture , and its relaxed vibe . Its food is unique in that it marries 450 years of Portuguese colonization with local food customs . The Portuguese brought in chili , mangoes , tomatoes and cashews ; introduced the cooking of pork and beef , breadmaking and preservation techniques , as well as a new method of making sweets . Goans added those chilis to their dishes , replaced the wine used to preserve dishes with toddy vinegar , and mastered the art of making bread to the point that Goans in other parts of the country are nicknamed ‘ pao ’ ( bread ). Goan food can broadly be categorized into ‘ Catholic ’ — heavily influenced by the Portuguese , and ‘ Hindu ’ — with a focus on seasonal produce and excluding meat and alcohol .

I moved to Mumbai in 2008 for work , becoming a Bomoicar ( the colloquial term

for a Bombay Goan ). As a journalist writing about food , I set out to find a taste of my actual home in my adopted home .

In the late 19th and 20th centuries , Goan Portuguese citizens started arriving in Bombay seeking work . They came to study , to work on ships , to serve as cooks in European households , to work as secretaries , or help in bakeries and shops . They settled in places that had pre-existing Catholic communities like Mazagaon , Dhobi Talao , and Marine Lines in South Bombay . They created their own safe havens : kudds — residential clubs where men were offered accommodation and food . These areas saw the birth of many Goan restaurants .

Old-timers speak fondly of City Kitchen started by the late football player , Sacru Menezes . In the book Bomoicar , there ’ s a mention of other Goan places : Gourdons , Carmello Caterers , Tosa ’ s , and Venice Caterers , known for its beef and pork dishes . The Jer Mahal Building , home to many kudds , once also had tiny rooms serving fish-curryrice . Luckily for me , some of these places still soldier on , allowing me to map my own Goan food trail in Mumbai .

These are spots that haven ’ t changed their food or decor in decades . They ’ re known to a select few Goans , or people who ’ ve lived in Mumbai long enough to be aware of its older restaurants . They ’ ve survived despite the shortage of customers , the rise of food delivery apps , and the rising cost of living in India ’ s financial capital . They ’ ve stayed strong while the world around them has changed .

Top restaurants

Pedro Serves modern interpretations of Goan food . With a relaxed yet classy vibe , it ’ s one of the few places serving poee , best had with their choriz butter .

Fresh Catch This relaxed spot has old English songs playing in the background . The fish dishes are excellent , especially crabmeat butter garlic .

Sushegad Gomantak This hole-in-the-wall place offers Goan Hindu-style dishes , and is good for all things fish , which are fried , served sukke or dry , or in a curry .

Goa Portuguesa Serves Goan , Portuguese and Continental food . The menu has Goan Hindu and Catholic dishes and there ’ s often live music .

New Martin Serves Goan-style Continental fare including steaks . It tends to be heavier on spices than typical Goan food . The beef chili fry and steak is popular .

images : awl images ; Stockfood

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