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images: Karolina Wiercigroch; Alessandra Villaverde- Enorme |
Above, from left to right: A view of Huaca Pucllana, a pre-Incan stepped pyramid, from the restaurant of the same name; white asparagus with tiger’ s milk at Astrid y Gastón |
the shell and fried fish sandwiches. It’ s also a jumping-off point for boat trips to nearby islets. Most tours head to the Palomino Islands to seek out seabirds like boobies and Humboldt penguins and swim alongside sea lions.
While you can find decent waves in Lima, surfers in the know head to the breaks farther out. If a trip to the warmer waters along the north coast isn’ t in the cards, the best day trip is to Punta Hermosa, a beach town with over 10 different breaks, about 30 miles south on the Pan-American Highway. The town has a bustling culinary scene, too— check out former Astrid y Gastón head chef Diego Muñoz’ s coastal Peruvian restaurant Navegante, or oyster bar Cañete.
Further south and inland is Lunahuaná, hidden within a narrow valley in the Andean foothills. During the rainy season, from November to April, the Class IV rapids on the Lunahuaná River attract thrillseeking
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rafters and kayakers. Beginners will prefer the calmer waters during the rest of the year, or just sipping pisco, Peru’ s emblematic grape brandy, from the artisan distillers there. Plan for a meal at Refugio de Santiago, where you can taste regional specialties like guinea pig or river prawns. This area is also known for its lucuma, a local fruit that tastes like a cross between pumpkin and maple syrup— try it in ice cream from vendors along the highway as you head north back to the city.
SHOPPING
The shopping scene in Lima is markedly more modern than elsewhere in the country, with most of the large malls like Jockey Plaza focused on international luxury brands, though homegrown designs can be found outside of the more commercial districts.
Barranco is a hotbed of independent shops and galleries. A good place to start
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