sardinia

images: alamy; roberto satta

blood-orange hue from the pinch of saffron in the recipe.

Restaurants and shops

along Via Roma, Cagliari

CITY WALK

The next morning, I’ m joined by guide Silvia Bondanini of Sardinia Magic Experience for a tour of Cagliari, Sardinia’ s main city.

“ A walk through Cagliari is the perfect way to explore it. The city was founded in the sixth century B. C. E. and has seen many populations who left their imprint,” she tells me, her almond-shaped eyes widening every time she speaks.

Our steep walk through the narrow streets of the Castello district takes us past churches, open-air restaurants and artists’ studios. A tray of traditional Sardinian cookies displayed at a timeworn

storefront lures me into the dimly lit bakery, Durke Maurizia Pala. Today’ s offering is lemon ricotta cookies, and I can’ t resist a bite before we continue our journey onward and upward toward the fortress.

The citadel sits high on top of a hill at the heart of Cagliari, with one side reinforced by gargantuan limestone walls. Positioning myself in the slim shade of a palm tree, I appreciate the sea view and catch my breath.

“ Cagliari is alive with activities and so many layers to explore,” Silvia tells me.“ I’ m often guiding visitors through the streets, telling our legends and local stories while taking in the panoramic views.”

We march on and reach the medieval Tower of the Elephant, so called because

Tuna

carpaccio Red tuna is the centerpiece of the Girotonno, the annual summer festival held on the island of San Pietro, off Sardinia’ s southwest coast. Chef competitions, tasting sessions and cooking demonstrations showcase this prized species. Try carpaccio antipasti at Al Tonno di Corsa in Carloforte.

Fregula

rustica

Among the oldest of traditional Sardinian dishes is fregola(‘ breadcrumbs’). Semolina flour is hand-formed into tiny balls then toasted to impart a nutty flavor. Sa Mandra is a working farm and Bib Gourmand restaurant with fregula rustica on its tasting menu.

Spaghetti with bottarga

Bottarga, salted and cured fish roe, is often grated or sliced as a briny topping for pasta. Make your way to the dramatic coastline near Nora to try this dish at Michelin-starred Fradis Minoris.

These fried dumplings are stuffed with Pecorino and lemon zest then drizzled with warm, local honey. In Cagliari, ChiaroScuro di Marina Ravarotto is a small restaurant on Corso Vittorio Emanuele II offering fresh sebadas.

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