SIGHT TO SEE
LEMPUYANG TEMPLE , BALI
Bali is studded with over 10,000 temples — but this might just be its most awe-inspiring , says Emily Lush
Two perfectly symmetrical , intricately carved towers reach skyward , cradling the caldera of Mount Agung — one of Indonesia ’ s tallest and most petulant volcanoes . The so-called ‘ Gates of Heaven ’ mark the entrance to Penataran Agung Lempuyang , an extensive compound of temples or ‘ puras ’ associated with the Balinese Hindu god , Iswara . It ’ s among the island ’ s six most sacred sites , known collectively as the Sad Kahyangan Jagad , or ‘ six sanctuaries of the world ’.
Situated near the eastern tip of Bali , the temple was founded in the 11th century by the high priest Mpu Kuturan . Its location on Mount Lempuyang , at 3,200 feet above sea level , makes it one of the highest temple complexes on the island . To reach its apex , the devout must test their endurance on 1,700 dragon-flanked stone steps , ascending three levels of the mountain devoted to the trinity of deities Brahma , Vishnu and Shiva . Pausing to pray at the seven temples laid out at different elevations is meant to simulate one ’ s spiritual journey from the earthly world to the divine realm . Hinduism is believed to have arrived in Bali by way of Indian traders , and its core maxim is Tri Hita Karana — the balance between humanity , nature and the divine .
Today , the upper levels are reserved for pilgrims , while a small part of the outer sanctum ( jaba pisan ) is open to visitors . The Gates of Heaven observe a common tenet of Balinese temple architecture , symbolically bridging the outside world and the hallowed sanctuary within . When it comes to photos , the reflected image of the gates is a sleight of hand . There is no pool of water , but rather a team of clever photographers who will , on request , position a mirror halfway across your camera lens to create the illusion .
ESSENTIALS
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Lempuyang Temple is located three hours by road from Denpasar Airport and 30 minutes from the nearest major town of Amed . Non-worshippers are welcome to visit the lower level during designated hours , and both men and women must dress modestly with covered knees and shoulders . Sarong rental is included in the entrance fee . image : alamy
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