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images : alamy |
Above : Aegina , one of the Saronic Islands , near Athens ; Temple of Poseidon at Cape Sounion |
Although English-language music is commonplace , a recent law requires most venues to play a minimum of 40 % Greek music . But for an all-Greek night out , the bouzoukia clubs have Greek artists performing live until the small hours . From mandolin players to pop princesses , a bouzoukia grants intimate access to the stars . At the end of the show , it ’ s traditional to throw a tray of roses at the performers .
EXCURSIONS
Tempting though it is to stay in Athens , venturing out of the city reaps rich reward . Approximately 15 miles south of Syntagma Square is Lake Vouliagmeni , a thermal spring and seawater lake sandwiched between the Saronic Gulf and a limestone cliff . With a temperature that lingers around 75F all year round , it ’ s a comfortable place for a swim regardless the time of year . Alternatively , visitors can sit on the wooden deck at the edge , dip their toes in and let shoals of native red garra fish nibble on their dead skin . It ’ s ticklish , and it ’ s not easy to keep still , but it results in seriously smooth feet .
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At the southern tip of the Attica peninsula — a fun drive along the winding Vouliagmeni coast road — is Cape Sounion . Topped by the Temple of Poseidon ( built in 440 BCE and beloved of Lord Byron ), the headland offers one of Greece ’ s most romantic views : the Aegean , bathed in an orange and blue haze . It ’ s a poorly kept secret , but locals and tour groups alike head here around 7pm — it ’ s recommended you arrive earlier to get the best sunset shot .
Athens can even be combined with a Greek island adventure . Aegina — which possesses its own Doric temple perched on a hill — is just 45 minutes away by fast ferry from the port at Piraeus . Visitors can hire a set of wheels at the picturesque main town and plan a loop around the island , stopping at the Temple of Aphaia , the Agios Nektarios Monastery , the Temple of Ellanios Zeus ( Europe ’ s oldest temple ), plus countless swimming spots .
Pistachios are this island ’ s most famous export , so cones of green ice cream made from the nut are readily available at roadside stalls and seafront tavernas .
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fall 2024 • 79 |