Situated in a valley where the mountains and forests of the Balkan peninsula at last give way to the glittering Aegean , Athens lives under the shadow of its ancient past . The Acropolis stands high above all else in the city , while the ruins of smaller Greek and Roman temples are scattered among busy Ottoman-era bazaars and hastily constructed apartment blocks .

Besides a diverse array of neighborhoods , each representing a different side to the city ’ s past , Athens is known for its thriving art scene . In the past five years , two major spaces — the National Gallery and the National Museum of Contemporary Art — have been renovated and housed within new glass buildings , while the port suburb of Piraeus is seeing a spate of indie galleries set up shop — including Carwan Gallery , which showcases Middle Eastern design .

Thanks to a glut of stylish new hotels , both in the elegant neoclassical city center and on the sandy shores of the Athens Riviera , the Greek capital continues to make a name for itself as one of Europe ’ s hottest city break destinations . New direct flights from the U . S . are making Athens even easier to reach ,

with Norse , United Airlines , Delta Airlines and American Airlines introducing routes from the East Coast this year . In a country that prides itself on its hospitality , visitors are sure of a warm , Greek welcome .

HISTORY

As Athens was at the very center of the Ancient Greek world , historic sites are hard to miss here . All roads radiate from the Acropolis and its crowning glory , the Parthenon .

It ’ s better to swerve the main entrance and go to the southern gate instead — the path leads directly to the 25,000-capacity ancient Theatre of Dionysus and Odeon of Herodes Atticus , which still play host to the world ’ s top performers .

The Athena ’ s Combined Ticket grants access to any of the city ’ s seven ancient sites , which could include the Acropolis , Agora ( the exceptionally well-preserved temple of Hephaestus and its tortoise guardians is a particular highlight ), the Roman-era Agora and Hadrian ’ s Library . There ’ s also the Temple of Olympian Zeus , Aristotle ’ s Lyceum plus the Kerameikos archaeological site — which , despite having fascinating Classical cemeteries and procession routes , sees few tourists .

Athens ’ Ottoman history is just as fascinating . North of the Acropolis is the Monastiraki neighborhood , home to the 18th-century Tzitsarakis Mosque-turned-art museum . The domed building is flanked by two flea markets : one selling locally sourced nuts , fruits and other produce , the other stocking vintage records , handcrafted leather sandals and home decor .

Clockwise from top : Restaurants near Akropoli metro station ; koulouri ( sesame bread ); playing backgammon

Previous pages , from left : Monastiraki square ; statue of Nemesis , Museum of Ancient Agora

images : awl images