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Clockwise from left : Portstewart Strand ; mussels are a popular choice on Northern Ireland ’ s increasingly seafood-loving menus |
most spectacular seafood spots in the area . It ’ s set right on Portstewart Strand , which is protected by the National Trust , and I ’ ve somehow managed to nab the prime table . A petite , two-person perch nestled into a big bay window looking out across the strand , it ’ s only made better by the wood-fired stove crackling nearby . In summer , the expansive canopy-covered terrace with outdoor bar naturally steals the focus .
I agonize over what to order , whether a bowl of steamed Mulroy Bay mussels in white wine with charred leek and smoked bacon or a half lobster anointed in garlic butter with a parmesan crumb . Owner Donal Doherty offers some advice for approaching the menu .
“ First , we always encourage a bit of sharing and ordering for the table . Second , you have to get your hands into some shellfish like nice-sized local langoustines , whole crab arms or some freshly-caught Carlingford oysters .”
Donal then pauses , almost ceremoniously , before adding : “ And , third , there ’ s nothing like a whole fish , cooked and served on the bone , so whatever we have that day — today it ’ s brill , tomorrow it could be megrim or sole — that ’ s a must .”
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Whole fish it is , I think to myself . My chosen side is a bowl of chips ( fries ) — fluffy on the inside , golden and crisp on the outside — every single one dressed with plenty of salt and vinegar . I clock a mini mound of toffee pudding en route to another table , so I make a mental note to keep room for dessert .
“ In 21 years of being a restaurateur , the single best thing I ever did was foster a connection to the boats at Greencastle , our nearest harbor ,” Donal tells me , pointing across the water , to the far side of Lough Foyle . For the last decade , he ’ s been buying seafood directly from the same boats and serving it straight up here at Harry ’ s Shack , which is named after his late father .
“ Them calling me with what they ’ ve caught before they land and offering first choice , it ’ s the most brilliant relationship I have . All I did was bring that relationship to the most perfect location for it — so you ’ re eating while looking out to exactly where the fish was caught ,” he adds .
I make short work of the whole brill , ditto the pudding — both washed down with local beer from craft brewery Kinnegar . Afterward , I head to Portstewart Strand , take off my shoes and go for an hour-long
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