Whether I look down or not as I cross the Carrick-a-Rede rope bridge is entirely up to me . The Atlantic is thrashing brutishly below my feet , spitting streams of seawater in the air . Most people are locking their vision straight-on , their eyes on the prize of firm land as they traverse a 65-foot-long chasm between the mainland and the small , seastack island off the County Antrim coast . The bridge has become a centerpiece of Northern Ireland ’ s Causeway Coast — which runs right along the north coast between the cities of Derry and Belfast . It ’ s one of the most popular hiking routes on the island and is emblematic of Ireland ’ s reputation for outstanding rugged landscapes and pristine natural beauty . It ’ s named after the Giant ’ s Causeway — a geological patchwork of 40,000 interlocking basalt columns . The natural masterpiece dates back 50 million years and is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site . Locals lovingly refer to it as the eighth wonder of the world .
I trace the rope handles on both sides at Carrick-a-Rede , and my knees wobble every now and then as my feet shuffle along the wooden planks . It ’ s an exhilarating first experience of the breathtaking
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Causeway Coast , a stretch of shoreline rich in magnificent vistas , golden beaches and postcard-pretty villages .
Now a popular tourist attraction , the rope bridge was first constructed in 1755 , and was a necessity and lifeline for local salmon fishermen . It ’ s hard to imagine fishing from such a perilous perch where the agitated ocean bullies the stoic cliff , but in its heyday , fishermen regularly caught 300 or more salmon here daily , hauled one by one on their backs up a makeshift stairway hewn in the rock .
What ’ s waiting on the other side of the bridge , now reinforced with metal wire and scrupulously tested for safety , is a tranquil escape where you can gulp in the sea air and be at one with nature . There are spectacular views too , with Rathlin Island in the near distance and Scotland ’ s Mull of Kintyre visible on a clear day .
I complete the crossing . By this point , my appetite knows only one thing : a seafood lunch as close to the water as possible . I hop in the car and drive toward the beach , through the lovely town of Portstewart , a journey that takes me past lavishly designed homes and a sprawling golf course . I pull up at the beachfront Harry ’ s Shack , one of the
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Clockwise from above : Walking the Carrick-a-Rede Rope Bridge near Ballycastle ; the bridge is almost 100 feet above the sea
Previous pages : Mussel tartlet , coley scotch quails egg and house-smoked mackerel profiterole served at Lir
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images : alamy ; awl images |