Postcards Fall 2024 US | Page 19

NEW ORLEANS , LOUISIANA

Exploring the French Quarter and the Garden District — both rich in musical and culinary tradition — makes for the perfect weekend in the Crescent City , says Amy Mutscher
DAY 1 images : alamy ; getty
Brass horns sing out at every turn in the city of New Orleans . From the moment you step off the plane , a Dixieland jazz band — an ensemble playing a style of jazz that originated here in the early 20th century — performs for incoming travelers on a purpose-built stage in the central terminal . Drop off your luggage at the hotel — Windsor Court , the Ritz-Carlton and Virgin Hotel are all excellent choices — and get out into the city for a bite to eat .
When it comes to sandwiches , Maine might have the lobster roll and Philadelphia might have the cheesesteak , but New Orleans is home to two of the most celebrated sandwiches in the country — the muffaletta and the po ’ boy . The muffaletta traces its roots to the Sicilian immigrants who arrived here in the early 1900s . The sesame seed-topped round muffaletta bread is cut and stuffed with deli-style ingredients like ham , salami , mortadella sausage , Swiss and provolone cheese and a thick spread of diced olives and peppers soaked in oil . Central Grocery and Deli , a third-generation storefront located on Decatur Street in the French Quarter , prides itself in being the ‘ home of the original muffuletta ’ and is the perfect place to try one . The second sandwich synonymous with New Orleans is a po ’ boy . It got its name in the 1920s when striking streetcar workers in search of a filling lunch sought tasty and cheap ‘ poor boy ’ sandwiches . Today ’ s version is typically filled with roast beef , sausage or fried seafood and served on locally baked , baguette-shaped Leidenheimer loaves .
Spend some time in the historic French Quarter to find out more about the city ’ s Creole culture and community — people of mixed French , African , Spanish and Native American ancestry , many of whom still live in and around this neighborhood . On Royal Street , experience a step back in time with elegant shops selling antique furniture , heritage antiquities , silver collectibles and contemporary artwork . The French Market , by the banks of the Mississippi River , dates back to 1791 and hosts a number of food stalls offering skewers of fried alligator and cups of chicken and sausage gumbo served over steamed rice , to name a few . Then , head over to Bourbon House , owned by local restaurateur Dickie Brennan , for a bourbon milk punch . This heady milkshake of bourbon , vanilla ice cream and vanilla extract topped with nutmeg is a must-try .
A short walk from here is Jackson Square , which was called Place d ’ Armes by French settlers and Plaza de Armas by the Spanish in the late 1800s . The square is crowned by the Roman Catholic St . Louis Cathedral . The Cabildo , a National Historic Landmark next to the cathedral , houses two centuries ’ worth of artifacts tracing the history of Louisiana . This area is also a hotspot for street performers who entertain tourists all day and into the night .
When it comes to dining out , Galatoire ’ s is legendary — especially on Fridays . This French Quarter mainstay is known for its lingering lunches which then become early happy hours , and eventually turn into lively fall 2024 • 17