Postcards Fall 2023 US | Page 45

copenhagen
From far left : Nyhavn harbor ;
people walking their bikes across
Dronning Louises Bro ( Queen
Louise ’ s Bridge ) in Nørrebro
LOCAL FLAVORS
images : getty ; alamy
curling it into cinnamon snails and folding the corners in to make square spandauer . As the oven gently bakes each one , scenting the air with cinnamon , we stop for coffee and bask in the glow of satisfaction .
We don ’ t skimp on tasting the final products , but even so , we ’ re still clutching large take-away boxes of fragrant warm pastry when I eventually leave . Bathed in warm , late afternoon sun , the arteries of Copenhagen flow around us with trilling bicycle bells and whirring wheels . In Nyhavn , outdoor bars are full of locals and tourists enjoying aperitifs , before heading out to eat in one of Europe ’ s most vibrant dining destinations .
The New Nordic Cuisine movement that burst into life in the mid-2000s , most notably with Noma , has given Copenhagen ’ s restaurant scene a relaxed confidence that
makes it hard to have a bad meal here . If you can ’ t get a reservation for Noma before it closes in 2024 , you can always grab the ultimate patty at POPL , the restaurant ’ s burger joint instead . I settle on an outside table at brewpub Warpigs in the Kødbyen Meatpacking District to enjoy succulent barbecue and beakers of hoppy microbrew amid a lively Copenhagen crowd .
Culinary ambition has upped the Danish pastry landscape here , too , currently enjoying a third wave , moving it on from traditional baking to a noughties renaissance that put homegrown premium bakeries such as Ole & Steen on the map . Now , these tastes are being joined by local artisan bakers and numerous Noma alumni who have opened independent bakeries .
In Copenhagen , bakeries are destination dining — with Copenhageners traveling
Sourdough Find superlative sourdough bread at bakeries such as Galst or buy a traditional breakfast morning bun — a sourdough roll , with piquant Comté cheese and butter .
Craft beer Copenhagen ’ s strong craft beer culture means microbreweries are all over the city , especially in the neighborhoods of Vesterbro , Nørrebro and the city center .
Fastelavnsboller ( semla ) This ganache-topped custard bun packs a sugary punch in February , when bakeries create innovative takes on it to celebrate Fastelavn , the Sunday before Lent .
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