THE VALLEY OF THE WOLVES | OLIVE OIL
“ Quinta da Aveleda’ s continuity and family involvement is crucial to the quality of the wines.”
And early picking also means the oil contains more health-giving anti-oxidants. With machine harvesting the olives are pressed within two hours of being picked. Although not yet certified Organic, the olives here are grown with a minimum of interference, and respect for the environment.‘ We are sensitive to nature and careful not to upset the equilibrium’.
As we left the groves Joaquim stopped to pick a few stray olives left behind after the harvest,‘ you see – they are getting soft – this is how the birds love them’. Right on cue a bird settled on the branch above us. The trees exposed to the sun at the end of the row were already showing signs of new growth, but as Joaquim explained‘ this is an anxious time for us- do we get enough leaves, do we get enough fruit?’
As we drove back to the house through the wood, past cork oaks and pines, and huge chestnuts trees, I could imagine the land in Joaquim’ s grandfather’ s time after he had inherited the farm from Herculano in 1877: with the wild pigs rooting around in the undergrowth and gorging on the fallen acorns, giving taste to the ham which they would eventually become.
Tasting Back at the Quinta, Veronica had prepared a tasting. In the typical highceilinged Quinta a shaft of sunlight fell across the floor. Lined upon the table were several small glasses, each with a glass lid and a number written in felt tip pen. I took the first cup- it was warm- lifted the lid and an appley aroma enveloped my nostrils. I took a sip, it was slightly peppery, fruity and not bitter – all typical qualities of Arbequina. Number two had more of a lemon aroma, with a bit of tomato, less peppery. The third one was grassy again, but slightly bitter, and not so fruity. It was Cobrancosa – a typical Portuguese variety which is often blended with Arbequina. The tasting continued with Galega( banana and bitter), Blanqueta( apple), Piqual and finally this year’ s secret blend. The blending of different oils requires skill, and Veronica explained that it’ s the use of indigenous varieties that sets Portuguese oil apart, and creates something special-together with climatic conditions, soil, and method of extraction which all affect flavour and acidity.
The success of their oil has not been without hard work however, and the couple have been through some difficult times. The economic situation in Europe is a big concern, and last year Joaquim suffered serious illness, from which he is now in remission. Nevertheless, it has slowed him down and he tires easily, so he has had to delegate some of the more physical work to others; but it hasn’ t diminished his love of the countryside and his olive groves. In fact his recovery has been remarkable, and perhaps this is because he loves where he is. As Joaquim told his doctor“ You should send the other patients to my farm, and they will recover much more quickly”
Other Developments His illness also helped Joaquim discover other new projects; a renewed interest in fresh, natural and healthy foods, using produce from their own garden, and making fresh bread daily – baked in the old bread oven that he recently renovated.
Another thing that Joaquim is looking forward to is summer next year, when his cork trees, will be ready for harvesting.
| www. portugal-life. net | Summer 2012 | 41