THE VALLEY OF THE WOLVES | OLIVE OIL
“ Quinta da Aveleda ’ s continuity and family involvement is crucial to the quality of the wines .”
And early picking also means the oil contains more health-giving anti-oxidants . With machine harvesting the olives are pressed within two hours of being picked . Although not yet certified Organic , the olives here are grown with a minimum of interference , and respect for the environment . ‘ We are sensitive to nature and careful not to upset the equilibrium ’.
As we left the groves Joaquim stopped to pick a few stray olives left behind after the harvest , ‘ you see – they are getting soft – this is how the birds love them ’. Right on cue a bird settled on the branch above us . The trees exposed to the sun at the end of the row were already showing signs of new growth , but as Joaquim explained ‘ this is an anxious time for us- do we get enough leaves , do we get enough fruit ?’
As we drove back to the house through the wood , past cork oaks and pines , and huge chestnuts trees , I could imagine the land in Joaquim ’ s grandfather ’ s time after he had inherited the farm from Herculano in 1877 : with the wild pigs rooting around in the undergrowth and gorging on the fallen acorns , giving taste to the ham which they would eventually become .
Tasting Back at the Quinta , Veronica had prepared a tasting . In the typical highceilinged Quinta a shaft of sunlight fell across the floor . Lined upon the table were several small glasses , each with a glass lid and a number written in felt tip pen . I took the first cup - it was warm - lifted the lid and an appley aroma enveloped my nostrils . I took a sip , it was slightly peppery , fruity and not bitter – all typical qualities of Arbequina . Number two had more of a lemon aroma , with a bit of tomato , less peppery . The third one was grassy again , but slightly bitter , and not so fruity . It was Cobrancosa – a typical Portuguese variety which is often blended with Arbequina . The tasting continued with Galega ( banana and bitter ), Blanqueta ( apple ), Piqual and finally this year ’ s secret blend . The blending of different oils requires skill , and Veronica explained that it ’ s the use of indigenous varieties that sets Portuguese oil apart , and creates something special -together with climatic conditions , soil , and method of extraction which all affect flavour and acidity .
The success of their oil has not been without hard work however , and the couple have been through some difficult times . The economic situation in Europe is a big concern , and last year Joaquim suffered serious illness , from which he is now in remission . Nevertheless , it has slowed him down and he tires easily , so he has had to delegate some of the more physical work to others ; but it hasn ’ t diminished his love of the countryside and his olive groves . In fact his recovery has been remarkable , and perhaps this is because he loves where he is . As Joaquim told his doctor “ You should send the other patients to my farm , and they will recover much more quickly ”
Other Developments His illness also helped Joaquim discover other new projects ; a renewed interest in fresh , natural and healthy foods , using produce from their own garden , and making fresh bread daily – baked in the old bread oven that he recently renovated .
Another thing that Joaquim is looking forward to is summer next year , when his cork trees , will be ready for harvesting .
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