ALGARVE ON YOUR PALATE | THE VERY BEST OF THE EAST
The very best of the east
Reviews by Ben Taylor
Brisa do Rio Rua Dr . Augusto Silva Carvalho 6 - 8 - Tavira Tel : + 351 281 321 670
When a restaurant is as consistently busy in the depths of winter as it is in peak season , it ’ s obviously a bit special .
Brisa do Rio is found just steps away from Tavira ’ s Roman bridge and has a loyal following among locals and knowledgeable tourists . Its menu features classic Portuguese ingredients with a modern-European twist .
The two young men who run the front-ofhouse deliver consistently amenable service , even when the restaurant ’ s popularity cause them to be rushed off their feet . They both seem to have an innate ability to remember their repeat customers .
The menu offers plenty of choice , with a good selection of fish and meat accompanied by two or three daily specials . In a town where restaurants often assume that all tourists want is fish or piri piri chicken , it is pleasing to see attention paid to duck and lamb .
To start , Brisa do Rio ’ s squid is my usual choice . Served in a slightly spicy sauce , it is beautifully tender and has stopped me from ordering squid anywhere else for fear it will be unable to compete . Other popular starters include my wife ’ s favourite , a generous plate of goats cheese with apple and honey , and piri piri prawns – large , juicy and not afraid to be as spicy as they really ought to be .
Mains include a generous rack of lamb , split into cutlets and served , in a nod to the tourists , with a Portuguese interpretation of mint sauce . Various steaks are on offer too as well as fish dishes including seabass fillets with prawns and orange sauce and a notably good pork and clams .
Portions are generous , but not so much as to put diners off dessert ! Chocolate and mango mousses are home made and heartily recommended !
The wine list is short but well considered and I personally recommend Barranco Longo , a rosé from the Algarve . Fruity and complex , it will please everyone at the table regardless of whether they are enjoying fish or meat .
Pay no heed to Brisa do Rio ’ s unassuming exterior – this is one of the best restaurants in the town and well worth the possible queue outside .
30 | Summer 2012 | www . portugal-life . net |