ALGARVE ON YOUR PALATE | THE VERY BEST OF THE EAST
The very best of the east
Reviews by Ben Taylor
Brisa do Rio Rua Dr. Augusto Silva Carvalho 6- 8- Tavira Tel: + 351 281 321 670
When a restaurant is as consistently busy in the depths of winter as it is in peak season, it’ s obviously a bit special.
Brisa do Rio is found just steps away from Tavira’ s Roman bridge and has a loyal following among locals and knowledgeable tourists. Its menu features classic Portuguese ingredients with a modern-European twist.
The two young men who run the front-ofhouse deliver consistently amenable service, even when the restaurant’ s popularity cause them to be rushed off their feet. They both seem to have an innate ability to remember their repeat customers.
The menu offers plenty of choice, with a good selection of fish and meat accompanied by two or three daily specials. In a town where restaurants often assume that all tourists want is fish or piri piri chicken, it is pleasing to see attention paid to duck and lamb.
To start, Brisa do Rio’ s squid is my usual choice. Served in a slightly spicy sauce, it is beautifully tender and has stopped me from ordering squid anywhere else for fear it will be unable to compete. Other popular starters include my wife’ s favourite, a generous plate of goats cheese with apple and honey, and piri piri prawns – large, juicy and not afraid to be as spicy as they really ought to be.
Mains include a generous rack of lamb, split into cutlets and served, in a nod to the tourists, with a Portuguese interpretation of mint sauce. Various steaks are on offer too as well as fish dishes including seabass fillets with prawns and orange sauce and a notably good pork and clams.
Portions are generous, but not so much as to put diners off dessert! Chocolate and mango mousses are home made and heartily recommended!
The wine list is short but well considered and I personally recommend Barranco Longo, a rosé from the Algarve. Fruity and complex, it will please everyone at the table regardless of whether they are enjoying fish or meat.
Pay no heed to Brisa do Rio’ s unassuming exterior – this is one of the best restaurants in the town and well worth the possible queue outside.
30 | Summer 2012 | www. portugal-life. net |