POPULAR MAGAZINE - The Sneak Peek (End of Summer Issue 2016) Jul. 2016 | страница 3

01

GUCCI: BRIN GIN G OU TS IDE R
SPIRIT TO TH E RU N WAY

Few fashion success stories are as notable as that of Alessandro Michele.
Gucci’s critically-acclaimed creative director first stepped into his role
around 18 months ago, quickly making a lasting impression on the
notoriously fickle fashion industry. His career has since gone from strength
to strength: the designer courted fans by eroding the flashy glamour that
previously defined the Italian brand, instead introducing his romantic,
bohemian vision to the then-struggling house.

This vision is amongst the most celebrated and distinctive
in the landscape of today’s fashion industry, and it’s one
that’s disarmingly consistent. Over the course of his tenure
Michele has developed certain house codes, and they
recurred throughout his recent SS17 Menswear show in
the form of ’70s silhouettes, heavy embroidery and trippy
paisley prints.
But things are slowly changing at Gucci. In a collection of
colored velvet and floral embellishment, this season’s
standout piece was a tee that, to the untrained eye,
appeared counterfeit. FW16 was similarly surprising,
comprised of expensive handbags and leather jackets
spray-painted with the word “REAL” by artist GucciGhost,
who caught Michele’s eye by spraying “Gucci” onto a
series of random clothing and objects.
These subtle elements of subversion and rebellion were
particularly pivotal in the context of an Italian house that
hadn’t seen controversy since the heyday of Tom Ford,
who reigned supreme with his sex-soaked aesthetic over a
decade ago. The prices may still be eye-watering, but
Gucci is no longer synonymous with obvious glamour.
Instead, the brand is slowly cultivating a reputation as the
runway champion of outsider spirit. It’s easy to pinpoint
last season’s menswear show as the definitive turning
point for the brand. It’s not unusual for fashion houses to
stage “Snapchat takeovers” before a show to build online
momentum: these coveted gigs have become a subtle way
for brands to align themselves with certain characters and
unofficially declare the season’s “muse.”
The spirit of punk also bled into Gucci’s new marketing
strategy. A “Do It Yourself” service was recently
announced, allowing customers to customize pieces and
stamp their own identity on the looks. It’s a bit like when
you used to sew band patches onto your denim shirts and
hack off the sleeves but much, much more chic – and a
few grand more expensive, obviously.