PMCI September 2015 | Page 25

to ascertain the garment’s ability to keep out water. This is measured in PSI (pounds per square inch) or Hydrostatic Head. Hydrostatic Head is measured in mm and pressure is measured in pounds per square inch. The Hydrostatic Head is determined by a test whereby a fabric is held taut underneath a sealed tube of water 1 inch in diameter. Over 24 hours it is observed to see how many millimetres of water the fabric can withstand before it leaks through. When the fabric begins to seep water, the “height” in millimetres is noted. This is known as the fabric’s ‘hydrostatic head’ which literally means: Hydro - Water, Static - Not moving, Head - Height. The PSI relates to the amount of water pressure that a garment can withstand both from the pressure within the garment (the wearer) and the external conditions (the weather). To be 100% waterproof, the British Standards of 3 PSI has to be met, which means that a fabric can withhold 1500mm of water pressure. Pressure is not just as simple as the pressure of a rain storm, simply moving a garment when it is worn will exert pressure on the fabric. Let’s put this in perspective though; if you were to sit on a wet, flat surface the mean pressure you generate is around 10,000mm! If you were kneeling in a firing position then the point of the knee generates 15-17,000mm of pressure (smaller surface area, greater pressure) so let’s face it, a minimum legal rating of 1500mm just does not do the job. It does begin to explain though how a garment can be legally classed as “waterproof”, but in reality it really isn’t. Back to GORE-TEX; what’s the hydrostatic head I hear you ask? Simple one this, as all GORE-TEX products have a MINIMUM testing level of 28,000mm… that’s right, 28 metres! Put another way I’ve seen top end GORE-TEX fabrics tested at over 70 PSI and not leak until they quite literally explode! Belt and braces time here folks. balancing act. Behind it all is a law of nature, the Law of Partial Pressures. This law states that moisture as a vapour will naturally move from a warm, high pressure environment to a cooler low pressure one. If we are keeping a well balanced temperature inside our clothing system then on a foul weather day moisture will move away from our skin through the pores in our clothing and escape to the outside. Sometimes we call this the “Temperature Gradient” as it sounds like moisture vapour is moving “down” from hot to cold. So does a breathable fabric technology work in a rain forest? Yes is the answer, but due to the temperature inside the garment and outside the garment being more in equilibrium the transfer rate will obviously slow down. We all know we can work with Ma Nature, but never beat her! This of course is also subject to testing; many methods can be used here to establish a Moisture Vapour Transmission Rate (MVTR) or a Resistance to Evaporative Transmission (RET) figure. Of the two I prefer an RET figure as it just plain makes more sense to me. Skin is 100% breathable and has an RET of Zero. As soon as you cover it though you build up a resistance that slows down the rate at which moisture can be transmitted away; the thicker the barrier the more resistance and the slower the transmission. In essence this means that as you cover the skin with layers your system becomes less breathable so we will always be looking for technical fabrics with as low an RET figure as possible. In some cases the clever folks at Gore have got the RET figure well down into single figures, especially on their bespoke technologies and the GORE-TEX 3 Layer Pro garments. They’ve developed a completely new and innovative lining fabric here called a Micro Grid Backer which is thinner, but more durable, than the industry standard linings available elsewhere. Thinner, less resistance, right? Getting the Balance Right! Keeping you Comfortable Comfort is a relative thing, but if you’re too hot, that can lead to heat exhaustion; too cold, hypothermia. Controlling the micro-climate inside your clothing system helps to prevent either. The body regulates itself effectively; as activity levels increase you sweat and the evaporation of this moisture helps to cool the skin. If moisture is not allowed to move away you will become “uncomfortable” inside your clothing system. We’ll get properly into the layering system in a future article. Letting moisture escape from the system is a tricky The third and final part of the precarious balancing act is putting this membrane technology together in a garment with a lining fabric and an outer face fabric that will ensure long term durability whilst not degrading performance. These fabrics are chosen with extreme care and tested for all kinds of heat, cold, flex and abrasion. The tests are carried out both by Gore themselves and also independently. So, with our GORE-TEX fabrics in place we have exceptionally durable garments which have at least a 28+ metre hydrostatic head and which can sit right at the very top of the of the “Extremely Breathable” category. They are put together under minute scrutiny by Gores many Brand partners from the very latest and finest face and lining fabrics. The fact of the matter is that many people find GORE-TEX garments expensive but at the risk of being blunt they must have no real conception of what is going on behind the scenes! When you’re paying for a GORE-TEX garment you’re getting “Formula 1” levels of performance and that doesn’t come cheap. Of course, you can always buy a cheap “hatchback” but if your life may end up depending on the performance of your clothing system we have to ask the question “how much is too expensive”? pmcimagazine.com