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with a nimbleness to move in new directions to meet market demands. Combine that with tenacity, courage and infinite patience and you have the alchemy for success—maybe. “This business is not for the risk averse. Last year was a good harvest but the prior three years in a row we had a lot of spring frost damage. I would say the challenge has gotten greater with climate change; it’s a bigger problem for us than it was in the past. We’re just experiencing warmer winters.” With a few degrees drop in tempera- ture an entire crop can be lost along with hundreds of thousands of dollars. If Gene has an inner mantra it’s probably keep the orchard going. A Poolesville High grad (his grandfather was, too!), Gene’s work ethic locked in early. Attending local colleges, un- dergraduate and graduate studies in international economics, landed him a great position at the Federal Avia- tion Administration, which he loved. But it was always about getting into the orchard after school, after work, every day, seven days a week, all year. Time off? He spent it in the orchard. Beyond daily perseverance Gene is always on the lookout for new op- portunities. Sometimes they appear serendipitously, like the years–long evolution of the Kingsbury Pride peach. In the late 1990s Gene, doing the last pick of one peach variety, dis- covered a peculiar peach mutation. Three peaches on a slender limb were surprisingly green, while all others had ripened nicely. Deciding to see if they came back the next year he left them alone. Sure enough, the same mutation happened again. The big yellow freestone peach was delicious and it ripened three weeks after all the others. Gene decided to graft the small, two-seed- ling budwood to two orchard trees and waited three years to see if the peaches remained consistent with the original. They did. “Then we had to wait even longer until those two trees were big enough to propagate from.” Which Gene did, and today he has 235 thriving Kingsbury Pride peach trees. “These have been really popular for the last five years. It’s fun having them as an exclusive here. Every- body waits for the KIngsbury Pride. We picked over 1,500 crates this last year,” Gene beams. Then there are the apples on the farm. The trendy apple business is a lot like the gotta-have-the-latest iPhone—funny it’s from Apple. Certain universities it turns out, function as growing incubators for new variet- ies of apples. Fickle consumer tastes drive the demand for new, tastier, crispier, slower-to-brown varieties. As a fruit farmer if you don’t stay with apple trends you lose market share. “It’s hard to give that green light to the dozer to take down perfectly good trees,” says Gene, as he gestures to rows of new trees abutting the drive into the orchard. “I pushed out three rows of Galas and Fujis three years ago. They were in the prime of their life. So now Sun Fujis and Autumn Rose Fujis have been planted. I have 600 trees of those Fuji varieties, but now people want Aztec Fujis! So where is it going to stop?!” Nothing could be a more extreme example of the demand for designer apples than the creation of the Cosmic Crisp out of Washington State Uni- versity that began in 1997. The frenzy produced 12 million orders with the caveat that no trees were to be sold outside of Washington for 10 years to help growers there. “It’s deserving of the buzz, ” Gene says, and quickly pivots to talk about a new variety he especially likes: the Ever- crisp with 400 trees already in the ground. And this spring he’s about to plant another new variety, as he starts to chuckle—the Ludacrisp! Gene is also the current co- president of the Montgomery Coun- tryside Alliance, 15-year advocates for policies that preserve natural open spaces and rural lands in Montgom- ery County’s Agricultural Reserve. “I wouldn’t be farming today without the Ag Reserve. The protection has meant a lot to my family. Back in 90s we signed on to the Rural Legacy Program. We sold all our development rights but one, so no one can come here and develop this land. Back in the 60s and 70s we had more people looking at our farm for development than today, hands down. Unless you want to buy a farm there is no point in looking at a property like this, and that’s why it works.” Interview over, Gene with his usual graciousness says thanks and heads back to the orchard. Kingsbury Orchard • 19415 Peach Tree Rd, Dickerson, MD • 301-972-8755 www. kingsburysorchard.com plenty I spring sowing 2020 31