farm , fork & flavor
Capture Flavors of the Season with Ratafia
By Claudia Kousoulas
Preserving food seems like
hard work . It brings to mind images of aproned women laboring in steamy summer kitchens putting up jars of lima beans that will be less than enthusiastically welcomed come February .
But there ’ s an easy and elegant way to capture seasonal flavors . Ratafia is the technique of infusing alcohol with fruits , herbs , and spices . Unlike distilled fruit liquors , which require a still and have traditionally been men ’ s work , ratafias are the housewife ’ s domain . Mirielle Johnson , in her book Cuisine of the Sun , calls them Boissons de Menage — household liquors . She writes they are used as gentle restoratives , prescribed for everything from growing pains to spring fever .
There is debate over the origin of the name . Some claim it is a Creole word , others say it comes from the Latin , rata fiat ( to ratify ), in recognition of the shared drink that would seal a ratified treaty , which sounds awfully coincidental . And just to complicate things , many British and early American cookbooks define ratafias as biscuits , most often an almond cookie , perhaps meant to drink with wine .
But there is no debate about how long and widely ratafias have been made . In one of the earliest
American cookbooks , The Virginia House-wife , Mary Randolph includes ratafias flavored with currants , rose petals , ginger , and hydromel ( honey ) in her chapter with recipes for soaps and beers , part of a well-stocked pantry .
And even though Montgomery County ’ s own Elizabeth Ellicott Lea was part of the teetotal Quaker community , her book , Domestic Cookery , includes a section on “ Cordials , Wines , Vinegar , Pickles & c .”
Some , like Peach Cordial , she recommends as “ a nice seasoning for cake ,” and she makes cordials out of blackberries , lemon , quince , cherry , and rose infused in brandy that is then strained and bottled .
In her 1864 book , The Complete Confectioner , Philadelphia author Eleanor Parkinson describes ratafias as “ liquors made by the infusion of the ingredients in spirits , and are similarly composed to the spirituous waters , but instead of being distilled , they are simply filtered , and sugar is added to them .”
Her definition goes right to why these are perfect for household production , simple infusion . Her flavor recommendations include cherries , orange flower
Tincture of Vanilla
Vanilla beans , well bruised , half an ounce ; French brandy , one gill ; let it stand one week , and it will be fit for use . Keep it corked tight . This article will keep any length of time , and is very convenient for seasoning ices .
- From Domestic Cookery . Tip : One gill is about ½ cup .
plenty I autumn harvest 2020 35