trated in California and Arizona, which grow about 98 percent of the U. S. supply. Lettuce is the second-most consumed vegetable in the U. S.( behind potatoes), which means most of us are purchasing it from faraway sources.

Many local-food advocates recommend limiting lettuce consumption to warmer months.“ In winter we use hardier greens, like pumpkin kale, winter bore kale, and radicchio,” says Melissa Kelly, the chef at Primo Restaurant in Rockland, Maine; even in chilly Maine, she explains, these crops are only dormant for three to four weeks during the winter.

If you live in a region where local greens disappear in wintertime, fill up instead on locally grown cabbage, turnips, carrots, and parsnips, which provide most of the same vitamins and minerals as dark leafy greens. To make up for two key nutrients you might miss without your green veggies— fi- ber and folate— eat more beans, which can be found locally in much of the country.

TOMATOES In most regions, tomato season is the summer, as the plants need lots of heat and sunlight. California and Florida have these conditions all year; in other areas, farmers extend the season by using greenhouses and hydroponic growing systems. Most chefs, however, say there’ s no comparison.“ Farms that grow tomatoes year-round are never quite the same,” says Kelly. Her solution is to modify her tomatobased

dishes.“ In winter, you can do a dried-tomato pesto instead of fresh tomatoes,” she says.

Hugo Matheson, chef and coowner of The Kitchen, in Boulder, Colorado, suggests buying tomatoes in season, and either canning them or making sauce and freezing it for later.“ You’ re preserving a product at its peak rather than settling for an inferior product when it’ s not in season,” he says. Still, it’ s hard to get around the demand for fresh tomatoes.“ I fold under pressure,” says Matheson.“ People can’ t understand why they can’ t have a slice of tomato on their sandwich.”

CITRUS FRUITS Winter is citrus season in California, Florida, Texas, and Arizona, where most citrus fruit is grown in the U. S. The rest of the country has it much tougher.“ If I did everything by the book, I wouldn’ t have any citrus,” says Kelly.“ But it would be very hard for me to cook without lemons, or fresh limes and oranges.”

Indeed, citrus fruit is practically a staple: Oranges are the mostconsumed fruit in the U. S., and countless recipes call for lemon juice. While this is one area where many local-foodies cheat, there are some options for getting around the problem. Substitute white wine vinegar in equal parts for lemon juice; and instead of eating oranges, try kumquats, which are in season through March and can survive at much lower temperatures than other citruses. Check your farmers’ market, or visit localharvest. org to find nearby sources for them. ■

Serves 6 to 8

“ I love the versatility of dried beans,” says Matheson, chef and coowner of The Kitchen in Boulder, Colorado, who uses them often in his recipes. Butter beans don’ t grow well in Colorado, so he orders them dried from Iacopi Farms in Half Moon Bay, California.“ Dried produce does have a shelf life,” he cautions.“ You should look for beans that are no more that a year old.” The best place to fi nd them is at local farmers’ markets; beans are usually harvested in October or November, then dried during the winter months.

For this soup, you can use any type of bean you like. Spinach should be available at many local farms in March, but if not, you can substitute other local greens.

Ingredients 6 oz. dried beans, soaked in water overnight and drained One large onion, chopped 2 pints chicken or vegetable stock 1 / 4 cup extra virgin olive oil 1 / 2 lb. spinach 5 sprigs fresh thyme, leaves removed 1 cup fresh chopped parsley or celery leaves Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

Procedure 1. Place the soaked, drained beans in a large pot and pour in the stock to cover. Simmer the beans and stock over medium heat until beans are tender, about 40 minutes. 2. Meanwhile, in a sauté pan over medium-high heat, heat up half of the olive oil. Add the onions and thyme and sauté until soft, about 6 minutes. Add this mixture to the beans as they simmer. 3. Once the beans are tender, stir in the spinach and simmer until cooked through, about 2 to 3 minutes. If needed, add water or stock to thin the soup. Season to taste with salt and pepper. 4. Ladle soup into bowls and garnish with olive oil and parsley or celery leaves. Serve with lots of crusty bread.

plentymag. com Feb / Mar / 07 | 77