HA P P Y TOG E T H E R
seven-day route goes to projects like building
The Paro dzong is
irrigation ditches, renovating monasteries, and
architecturally
organizing community events and festivals.
renowned.
My group traveled through the high mountains and operated in the typical Bhutanese
fashion: leisurely and luxurious. A cook, two
horsemen, and a trekking guide accompanied
the four of us, and mules carried our provisions, tents, and a slew of fold-up tables and
chairs. Most days we walked for fewer than
five hours at a gentle pace, focused more on
the scenery than on our progress. The first
day, the scenery included apple orchards, moss
forests, and a small village, where every yard
hosted a mess of horses and chickens.
That first evening, I climbed up to a tiny
monastery. The wind whipped the prayer
flags that were strung along a ridge to send
written prayers to heaven on the breezes. A
boy monk hidden in the wind-rattled stone
tower sang a stark, melodic phrase, but
other than those hushed murmurs, there was
silence. This was another corner of the world
that held much spiritual power, obvious even
to an atheist like myself. I emptied my brain
of thoughts and watched the shifting sea
of prayer flags in front of a crisp skyline of
peaks, dark against the setting sun.
For the next three days, we traveled along
rolling, exposed ridges and through forests of
pines and rhododendrons, alternately climbing
and descending. Our efforts were rewarded with views of 23,997-foot
Chomolhari, Bhutan’s highest peak, and other royally magnificent peaks;
cloudless nights; and evenings spent feasting on curries and Bhutanese
specialties, like chilies in cheese sauce, next to a campfire. Temperatures
plummeted after dark, but we were well-fed, well-warmed, and tuckered
out from the alpine wind, sun, and walking. We slept soundly.
By day we chatted with yak herders and passed lakes that the Bhutanese believe are haunted by fickle, powerful spirits. One morning
we found evidence of one of the world’s most elusive creatures, a snow
leopard, who had unsuccessfully stalked our mules after dark. By night,
we chatted about Arnold Schwarzenegger films and movie stars who
have visited Bhutan—“I saw Demi Moore one time!” chimed in quiet,
We traveled along exposed
ridges through forests of pines and
rhododendrons; in the evenings we
feasted on curries next to a campfire.
WHEN TO GO
October and March are the most
popular months to visit because of mild
temperatures and sunny skies. April and
September, however, are less crowded
and also boast fine weather. December
is a good time to see smaller cultural
festivals, trek in the southern regions,
and see migrating endangered
black-necked cranes.
44 | Feb/Mar/07 plentymag.com
FIND A GUIDE
The government forbids independent
travel, so guide services arrange visas,
itineraries, and airline tickets through
Druk Air, the national carrier. The $200per-day tariff includes basic accommodations, meals, transportation, and guides.
The author recommends Bae-Yul Excursions (baeyul.com.bt); a list of other tour
operators is available at tourism.gov.bt.
shy Phutsho one evening as we huddled around the fire.
In many ways, my guides, particularly Chencho, personified the
country’s transformation. In my room later in Punakha, Chencho told
me about the nature of his Buddhist practice and how he performs
rituals in his hometown’s temple in order to appease his protective
deities while he flicked through channels looking for English soccer, a
country-wide obsession. He adores basketball just as much as archery,
Bhutan’s national sport, and listens to Kenny Rogers and 50 Cent
as well as Bhutanese traditional and pop songs. He was constantly
punching text messages into his phone but also prostrated solemnly in
front of shrines in temples without hesitation.
Chencho, who is 28, is a prime representative of the first genera-
GET THERE
Fly from the U.S. to one of four airports
serviced by Druk Air: Kathmandu, Calcutta, Bangkok, or Delhi. Since weather
can delay flights to and from Bhutan,
include an extra day in one of these cities on the way back so you won’t miss
your flight home.
DON’T MISS
Bhutan is known for its tsechus, elaborate
traditional dance festivals. But skip the
crowded ones in Paro and Thimpu and
opt for a smaller one in a town like Jakar,
Mongar or Trashigang. The Department
of Tourism lists festival dates (tourism.
gov.bt). Also consider a short, community-based trek to experience remote village life and support the local economy.