travel
Karmel Schreyer takes us on an adventure in Kauai
'Ohana' means family (in the Hawaiian
language). 'Family' means no one gets
left behind. But if you want to leave, you
can. I'll remember you though. —Lilo (Lilo
and Stitch)
R
ather than dreading a trans-
Pacific crossing as you plan
your next vacation, consider
this: descending halfway into
the 12-hour flight, onto a green and
mountainous oasis in the ocean. Well-
known but often overlooked, Hawaii
offers a variety of vacation options within
easy reach. Kauai, the state’s ‘Garden
Isle’, is recommended for what it has to
offer as much as for its distance from the
frenzy of Honolulu or Waikiki. It is an easy
yet exotic destination; part Tahiti and part
Albuquerque. Here, you find lush gorges,
waterfalls and rugged canyons alongside
beachside luaus, taco trucks and poke
bowls. There is plenty to see and do —
and eat and drink — to keep everyone in
your ‘ohana’ satisfied.
Super Kauai
Many superlatives are used to describe
Kauai, with the ‘most unique’ and ‘least-
American’ culture in the state, it is a
mix of polynesian, Japanese, Chinese
and some Western influences. It is the
nothernmost island in the Hawaiian
island chain and is the oldest of the
main islands. At 5.8 million years old,
Kauai boasts more rivers, beaches and
waterfalls than any other island in the
state—as well as the longest and only
navigable river. Kauai is home to: the
largest coffee plantation in America
(and produces more taro than any
other island); the largest protected
population of the state bird, the Nene
Goose; more feral chickens than any
other island (thanks to 1992 Hurricane
Iniki, apparently); the greatest number
of microclimates in the smallest space;
the wettest spot on earth (Mt. Waialeale
averages 450 inches of rain per year).
In addition, half of the island’s 111miles
of coastline are sandy beaches, and
97 per cent of the land is given over to
agriculture and conservation. But before
your children’s eyes glaze over with all
these facts, be sure to tell them that
Kauai is where the film Jurassic Park
was shot. And it is also the birthplace
of Disney’s cutie Lilo—of Lilo and Stitch
fame. Kauai is a place so beautiful, it’s
where ‘Experiment 626’ and its alien
handlers chose to crash land. You can
tell your ‘ohana’ that.
Hawaiian rollercoaster ride
I won’t leave the best till last; you simply
cannot go as far as Kauai and NOT
take a helicopter tour of the island. So
small it is measured in hectares, you
can get a birdseye view of the entire
island in one 45-minute ride. And what
a show it is as you fly over the rugged
NaPali (meaning the cliffs) coast to the
north, over Waimea Canyon—refered
to as the Grand Canyon of the Pacific
Ocean—following the rivers and streams.
And here’s a tip: the helicopters can seat
between four and six, and the best spot
is behind the pilot. These helicopters
have doors of glass right to the floor
(some have no door at all) which makes
for thrilling viewing as your ‘copter sails
over beaches and coastal flats and coffee
plantations, then spins you down into an
ancient volcanic caldera, up over lush
tropical hillsides that end in jagged cliffs
over rugged ocean coastlines. That is, if
the cloud-cover cooperates. There are
plenty of options to get on the water too;
from stand-up paddling and kayaking
on the Wailua river, to dolphin and whale
watching, deep-sea fishing, and sunset
dining by catamaran. Although Kauai is
not the place to catch Hawaii’s largest
waves, there is surfing too.
Village Life
Despite its small size, there are several
little towns on the island, some of which
have distinctive native charm. The
International airport is in the town of
Lihue, where you can pick up your rental
car and quickly drive to Poipu, an area
with an assortment of resorts, beachside
hotels, lovely restaurants, and all the
basic amenities.
The coastal highway does not
circumnavigate the island due to the
rugged terrain of the NaPali coast, but
Summer 2019
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