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| PET GAZETTE | REPTILE
very easy to place the probe from a thermostat
here and therefore monitor and maintain an
exact upper temperature. By using a lamp
that will generate the terrestrial wavelengths
of IR we not only allow the animal to find a
direct source of energy, but we also heat the
stone itself. It is then the stone that readmits
the given energy back into the enclosure via
long-wavelength infrared (IR-C) which in turn
heats the air. After a short while the system
will balance, and you will have created an
area from which direct basking but also works
via convection to warm the entire enclosure.
Also, by heating the rock itself and monitoring
that level of energy via a good thermostat
and separate non-contact thermometer we
provide an usable area of natural belly heat,
useful within the natural digestive process.
It is over this basking zone that a suitable
full-spectrum + UV-B lamp is also placed. The
heat lamp and UV lamps are placed side by
side so that the beams cross over a common
basking area. A lamp should be chosen to
provide the optimum target UVI over that
portion and at a safe distance between the
lamp and the animals back. Generally, this
is always 12-15”, we would aim for a UVI of
0.80-2.00 at this point. It is important that
our decoration is placed in a way in which
the animal cannot climb any higher and
thus obtain a level of energy that is greater.
Leopard Geckos are a species adapted to use
the energy contained within light when the
sun is rising or falling, in many cases they will
only openly bask for very short periods, if at
all. It is therefore the reduced level of energy
that is found as the animal descends from
this basking zone and positions itself, or more
frequently, part of itself within a lower quantity
of light. This is still very usable energy and it
does not matter if only the tail or flank or even
foot is exposed. The same processes within
the body will still be maintained towards the
manufacture, self-regulation and recycling of
the D3 cycle. Yes, the animal may rest in the
burrow within a small part of the body having
any interaction with light, this is as vital in this
species and within its own developmental
pathway as full blistering exposure would be
for a thick-skinned Desert Agama. This is part
of the self-regulatory system. We call this the
‘light and shade method.
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Suitable live plants and decorative natural
branches can be added to further increase the
area available for the animal to use. Creating
obstacles which will need to be clambered
over is indeed as important as providing a
range of caves in which they can rest. We need
to keep the body moving, improving blood
flow, keeping the organs functioning and
maintaining muscle condition. This all works
together to create an environment which can
truly work as a supplier for the animal.
I will also clear up any confusion between
the descriptors naturalistic and bioactive. A
naturalistic enclosure is one that has been
designed to resemble the habitats in which
a species is found. A bioactive system is one
in which live custodians have been added
in order to create a functioning ecosystem
in miniature. A naturalistic enclosure is not
bioactive unless this seeding has occurred
and is maintained. It is also certainly true
that a truly bioactive enclosure is not always
naturalistic. The apex for some would of
course be a system that is functioning as
bioactive and naturalistic per species.
Male Leopard Geckos are very territorial
and cannot be kept together, even a male’s
male offspring could soon find themselves
forming part of overall-nutrition if not separated
off quickly enough. Some keepers have kept
females together even in quite small enclosures
and they seem to have fared ok. I have
however now seen evidence of experienced
keepers building very large enclosures, 6’
long+ and maintaining a full social group
of an alpha male and 3-4 females. I cannot
yet suggest that this is safe for all, but with
experience and a watchful eye I think that
this could be eye-opening to say the least. A
functioning group, within its natural hierarchy,
fully energised, fed and supplemented
naturally, left to interact and to breed in-situ just
as they would in the wild habitat would be most
exciting, we could learn so much.
As you can see, we have come along way
since the days of plastic tubs, newspaper,
synthetic vitamins and darkness. This level of
advancement in the hobby is wholly positive,
helping us to learn more about the animals
that we adore and showing the hobby to the
outside world in a much more favourable and
dare is say ethical light.
JOHN COURTENEY-SMITH
John Courteney-Smith’s new fact-packed
book was published in Spring 2018 and
is available in all good book shops,
online and through the reptile wholesale
network at a trade price. This will be a
series of four new titles based
on the ‘Elements’.
To listen to John’s free podcasts
visit www.chameleonbreeder.com/
podcast/ep-55-mbd-uvb-with-john-
courteney-smith/
March 2019