cultural experiences
lessons as they took in the traditional looking, but stylish décor of one of Skopje’s oldest restaurants. We
shared a plate of cheeses, cucumbers, onions, peppers, tomatoes, and hard boiled eggs. My aunt enjoyed a sampling of ajvar and pastrmajla, as well as her first foray into Macedonian wines (Tikves’ Alexanderia claimed the top spot by the trip’s end). I introduced my uncle to Skopsko, the country’s most wellknown beer, while we ate various grilled meat dishes.
With our bellies full, we walked through the old bazaar district of Skopje, weaving through the narrow
streets, old buildings and past the lively vendors selling anything and everything.
“I really like this coffee culture,” Keiko said as we passed by numerous outdoor-seating areas for cafes. I
quickly remarked how ingrained the coffee drinking lifestyle is a part of life in Macedonia.
I did my best to explain Macedonia’s ethnic diversity and politics. I talked about how most of Skopje was
destroyed by earthquake over 51 years ago as my aunt and uncle bought postcards and magnets.
After visiting a few antique shops, we stopped in one of the older mosques not far from the fortress. My
aunt and uncle had visited numerous mosques the past few weeks and noted any differences between
the ones they saw in Central Asia and ones from the Ottoman Empire.
We made our way back to the city center, crossing the Old Stone Bridge. Like Turkmenistan, Skopje had
similar “vanity projects” my uncle remarked, as I tried to explain the abundance of statues and garishly
decorated buildings along the Vadar River.
Down South
The next day we traveled south by bus for three hours to my site in the southeaster