More than Amatti
By: Doug Urquhart, MAK 9 and Sara Woodward, MAK 10
One of the most delightful things about the
“Skopje resource day” is the wide array of gastronomical options awaiting you after you’ve done your business. From a bottle of soy sauce in Vero to a mug Guinness beer at Irish Pub, one can temporarily satiate the
craving for the taste of something “exotic.”
But we’ve all been to the giant supermarket
style prodavnicas and restaurants such as “that Arabic
restaurant” or “that Mexican restaurant.” Let’s think
about this for a second: Is drinking imported beer over
chicken strips really something you can’t wait to write
home about? If the hob-knob attitude and ridiculous
prices at ex-pat frequented places leave you wanting in
your search for a unique dining experience, then the
next time you’re in Skopje, take a chance and cross the
old stone bridge. Cross over the swiftly flowing Vardar
River into a completely different world, into the most
ethnically diverse and culturally rich place in all of Macedonia: the Stara ?aršija.
One restaurant in particular, Gallery 7, serves
authentic ?aj and Turkish lahma?un, so tasty that you
really wish you had ordered two. We stopped in to talk
to Samir, son of the restaurant’s owner, about Gallery 7
and how it all began.
Opened in 1984 at 197 in the Stara ?aršija on a
shaded little side street near the Murat Paša Mosque,
Gallery 7 was a place for residents of the neighborhood
to enjoy an authentic cup of ?aj, or Turkish tea. Over
the years, it has developed a diverse crowd of customers. According to Samir, people from all Macedonian
ethnic groups visit the restaurant and at one time, quite a
few foreigners were visiting the restaurant, although not
so much anymore. “Probably the most steady crowd of
patrons are students from the university, especially artists,” remarks the quadrilingual 19-year-old waiter as he
sips from his delicate glass of tea. “Most people come
for the open, artsy atmosphere and the authentic ?aj.”
The enchanting little eatery is open from 9 a.m.
to 10 p.m. every day of the week. It’s a perfect stop
when you’re in between haggling at the Bit Pazar and
visiting Goce Delcev’s grave… Or when you’re doing
anything in Skopje for that matter! From the bamboo
lined entry-way you find yourself sitting in oldfashioned wooden tables with red plaid tablecloths and
ethnic artistic seats. The most captivating part is the
artwork that lines the walls. There are six works of art
painted right onto the walls of the restaurant. Each one
tells a fascinating story of human life and experience.
They were painted by one of the most well-known Macedonian artists, Group Zero (or Grupa 0). You can
often hear Turkish music playing and just next to the
restaurant is a popular place to play backgammon, if
you’re interested. Gallery 7 also has very nice WC facilities and isn’t afraid to open the windows and let a
little cross-breeze in. So make Gallery 7 your next muststop eatery in Skopje and taste something a little more
cultural and exotic than Amatti!
Menu—what to order
Lahma?un (lah-ma-joon) –40 mkd
About the size of a large tortilla, it comes served on a
round wooden plate. It is like a large tortilla-like
bread topped with a delicious mixture of exotic
spices and tiny pieces of meat. Comes served with
finely chopped lettuce and a quartered lemon, and
cut into four pieces. Just squeeze some lemon on, fold
up the triangle, and enjoy!!
?yran (ay-rin) –20 mkd
This is the Turkish word for yogurt, but what they
serve is actually Turkish yogurt, much lumpier and
tastier than the Macedonian alternative. Comes in a
small pitcher with a glass. Tastes really really good
when drunk along with the Lahmacun.
Çay (Chai) –10 mkd
This is Turkish tea. It is very tart and strong. Comes
served in a traditional glass with a pot of sugar and
lemon wedge. Be careful and let it cool before trying
to drink it!
(They also make pizza and serve soft drinks.)
A few turkish words
Merhaba –hello/good day
Iy? günler –goodbye
Te?ekür –thank you
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