Travelogue
The Insiders Guide to Ohrid
By Karen Schaan
Summer is finally here and it’s a safe bet that many of you
are interested in heading down to Ohrid at some point over
the next few months. Well, Pauza has you covered. We
asked Mak 12 Karen Schaan to provide us with some insider advice on the best places to eat, drink, site-see, and sleep.
You can start at any point, but be sure not miss these must-sees:
Lodging: The easiest way to find a bed is to simply walk around
town and look for any home with a blue sign out front that says
“Rooms to Rent.” Just knock to see if they have availability. In
the summer, almost everyone rents out rooms and many people
will find you on the streets before you even have a chance to
knock on their door. Expect to pay around 15 Euro per person,
although you can find cheaper if you’re willing to hunt. If you
are coming on a holiday weekend or in July or August, it is best
to book ahead. If you have a car, then consider staying in one
of the lakeside villages such as Pestani, Trpejca, or Elshani.
•Antique Theater – Built around 2,000 years ago. From
the theater, follow the road up the hill towards the fortress.
Restaurants: Ohrid is teeming with café bars, pizzerias, fast
food joints, and traditional Macedonian restaurants. Some recommendations for traditional food: Antico (in Old Town), Dalga
(on the lake in Old Town) and Belvedere (across from the lake
in the new part of town), which has indoor and outdoor seating with traditional music and some of the best spicy pinjur in
Macedonia. For mouthwatering miniature-sized baked goods,
stop at the new Romanian bakery Fornetti, next to the Irish Pub.
Young and hip Macedonians hang out at Kadmo Café Bar, but
any spot along the water in Old Town or near the port are worth
visiting for their people watching vantages.
•Kaneo – Head down the steps from Plaosnik to Kaneo
and St. Jovan, one of the most photogenic spots in all of
Ohrid. If you are up for more adventure, follow the paths
you see by the lookout point above St. Jovan. The paths
take you to a secluded beach, which can also be reached
by boat from Kaneo for about 100 denars per group.
Nightlife: It’s hard not
to find the nightlife in
Ohrid, all you need to
do is walk around Old
Town. For live music,
visit Jazz & Blues (a.k.a.
Duck Café) in the new
part of town along the
lake. Another favorite
of volunteers is the Jazz
Inn near St. Sophia and
for those of you who like
to stay out ‘till the wee
hours of the morning,
visit Cuba Libra, also
near St. Sophia.
Major Sites: A walking
tour of Old Town will
take about two hours.
12 - pauza
•St. Bogorodica Perivleptos – Atop the smallest hill near the Antique Theater and Upper Gate,
there is also an Icon Gallery across the path.
•Fortress of Tsar Samuel – The 30-denar cost to enter the fortress is well worth it for the incredible
views, though there isn’t much to see inside the fortress walls. Then take the wooded path down the hill.
•
Plaosnik – Overlooking the lake, this area features a beautiful, newly built church and an active archeological dig.
•St. Sophia – Heading back into town, don’t miss this church (or
the banana split of the same name at the restaurant across from it).