PALESTINE Memories of 1948 - Photographs of Jerusalem | Page 89

The absentee Umaima Mohtadi Al Alami, 83 years old From the roof terrace of her house in Ramallah, Umaima can see the village of Nabi Samwil in the dis- tance, with its mosque built on the spot where the tomb of the prophet Samuel is believed to be. It is a symbolic place that has drawn Muslim and Jewish believers for centuries. Umaima was lucky enough to have grown up there with her family. She used to play with her brothers and sisters in the gardens at the top of the hill, from where a magnificent view opens out to the distant golden domes of Jerusalem; Jerusalem, where she would go to school. Every morning, Umaima gazes out over all those places, places that she has engraved on her memory so that she can tell her children and grandchildren about her life before 1948. She does not want to leave Ramallah: just a few kilometres away as the crow flies, Nabi Samwil and Jerusalem are what keep her here. Yet today, she cannot go to those places: she is one of the “absentees” according to Israeli law, which means that her family property in Jerusalem and around the Old City no longer belongs to her. Umaima is absent, even if she is living in Palestinian territory, more present than ever!  My father, ‘Abd Al Rahman Al Alami, was a highly respected man in Jerusalem. In the 1920s, hav- ing graduated from the University of Al Azhar 1 with an honours degree in Islamic Studies, he became a teacher of theology and was a religious authority at Al Aqsa. 2 On the esplanade there, he had a room, known today as Dar Al Quran Al Kareem (House of the Holy Koran), in which he received anyone who wanted to learn about or discuss religious topics. During Ramadan, he would spend the whole of the last ten days there because the Koran was revealed to the prophet during this period and so they are considered to be the most significant days. After sunset, we would bring him food and drink with which to break his fast. In Nabi Samwil, my father was in charge of the mosque, which had been built in 1730 during Ottoman rule on top of what was believed to be the grave of the prophet Samuel. He had inherited this position from his father, who had been appointed by the Ottoman authorities. The mausoleum was in a closed room at the heart of the mosque perched on the top of the hill, 859 metres above sea level, with an exceptional view of Jerusalem. The site, with its Byzantine monastery that was captured by Saladin in 1187, was transformed in the fifteenth century into a centre that attracted thou- sands of pilgrims, both Jewish and Muslim. 3 As the guardian of this holy place, my father was lucky enough to be housed in it with his wife and chil- dren. So we lived at the top of the hill, just below the mosque, and I grew up watching the prominent figures of Islam of the 1940s visiting my father. The house was Umaima 87