The walk continues along the creek until the ascent of Ioribaiwa Ridge begins. False ridges, one
after another are climbed, and the benefit of the
pre-trek training starts to show its true worth, as the
real battle of wills begins. At the top after passing
through the village, we are at the point of the furthest Japanese advance along the Track. Looking
back there is the realisation of how close the Japanese were to reaching their goal.
Over the course of the journey we shall ascend and
descend over 5,000 vertical metres. Day 2 also has
the Maguli Range to tackle in the afternoon before arriving in the scenic village of Nauro, where
a hot meal and our individual tents are waiting. A
comfort not shared by the Diggers 74 years ago.
From here we walk down into the Nauro Swamp
before another challenging walk into the beautiful
and welcoming village of Menari. Today we are in
camp early, and can enjoy the natural spa and the
company of some of the village people.
From Menari we walk up the slopes of Brigade Hill
to the knoll at the top. A site of fierce fighting and
unquestionable courage. It is a place that forever
will be etched in your memory. Here I tell the stories of the battle and those of some of the Diggers
who l have had the privilege to know. I can never
leave Brigade Hill without a heavy heart. The sacrifice here can never be forgotten.
Sweeping views of the ranges and villages appear
as we round the north of Brigade Hill and descend
into Efogi village for lunch. More climbs and descents take us to the high village of Naduri, after
an exhausting but rewarding day. Next morning we
walk up into the extraordinary moss forest. We are
now hovering around the 2000m mark, where monsters of pandanus and soft composting tracks take
us to the beauty of the Myola lakes.
These “dry” lake beds were used by the Australians
for the dropping of supplies, but were known as a
place of ghosts by the local people. We camp at
the scene of a B25 Mitchell bomber crash site, in a
campground that rivals the botanical gardens. The
temperature at night is now like a winter’s night in
Melbourne, and the thermals show their true worth.
We walk over the highest part of the Track early the
next morning and into the valley that will take us
to Kokoda. Following Eora Creek we swing up and
down the side of the valley. An area of both a desperate withdrawal and gruelling advance it is still
hard to fathom the difficulty and sheer resilience of
the forces who fought here.
Day 7 takes us through the village of Alola and onto
the memorial at the site of the battle of Isurava. This
is where we camp and have the whole afternoon
to enjoy and ponder the scene of one of Australia’s
most important battles. It is a great reward after the
journey we have all endured to get there, and separates it from any other memorial.
We conduct a dawn service at Isurava before our
final descent to Kokoda, and a chance to rest
some weary bodies. The satisfaction of completing
the Track beamed from everyone’s faces, including the carriers, who made every step that little bit
easier and special.
Flying back from Popondetta north of Kokoda, we
return to the Sogeri Lodge for a tearful thank you
and goodbye to the Papuans who have shared
every moment with us over the journey along the
Track. The friendship between us forged by our
ancestors resonates today, and will be a constant
memory of this amazing place.
You don’t just walk Kokoda, it becomes part of you.
www.kokodatribute.com