Hanging Rock opened on October 2 , 2021 , with the help of nearly 100 volunteers . They are now developing the second half , says Beauchamp . A small area will be added for climbers this summer , and more sections are on the way .
“ It ’ s a great resource , and we ’ re excited for people to use it ,” he says . “ We have put so much work into it — putting in trails , pulling up roots . It ’ s wonderful to see people enjoy the resource and use it responsibly .”
The Hanging Mountain Guidebook has this to say about the site : “ It is hard to overstate the value of Hanging Mountain as a climbing area . Traditional climbers will want their 6 " camalots . Sport climbers will be set with sixteen draws , but carry two dozen quickdraws if planning on stringing together multi-pitches . There is something for every climber , and there ' s no shortage of unique granite-style features that will blast your arms , make your fingers achy , and destroy the tips of your shoes .”
Hanging Mountain has a good range of difficulty — although not much terrain for novices or elite climbers . There ’ s a solid middle and upper-middle range , with a grade spread of 5.7 to 5.13 . ( The 5 designates that it is technical climbing that needs a rope . Flatanger in Norway has the top end of the scale at 5.15 .)
For those new to rock climbing , a good entry point is at a gym with a climbing wall , such as the Kilpatrick Athletic Center in Great Barrington . You ’ ll need a broader skill set to go rock climbing safely and effectively outdoors . Once you master the climbing wall , find a professional guide who can teach you those outdoor skills .
Beauchamp attempted to describe what it is about rock climbing that has engaged him for nearly two decades . “ It ’ s being outside in a beautiful place and the camaraderie . Rock climbs are like snowflakes . Every one is truly unique . There ’ s the mental puzzle-solving component mixed with overcoming the physical challenge of unlocking that puzzle while overcoming your fear . The three components intermingle . It ’ s you versus the rock and you versus yourself .”
A good source for outdoor rock climbing guides is American Mountain Guides Association ( AMGA ): amga . com / hire-a-guide .
A PDF of the Hanging Mountain Guide can be found at climbgneiss . org / hanging-mountain .
Western Mass Crags :
Chapel Ledge in Ashfield : Reminiscent of crags in the White Mountains or Yosemite . Chapel is popular with outdoor educators and other groups , so be prepared to see ropes on the main slab . Many groups that make regular use of Chapel , such as the AMC , are generous about sharing time on the rock .
Farley Ledges in Erving : Largest rock climbing area in Southern New England . WMCC purchased a seven-acre plot that allows for permanent parking and trail access , but they do not own any of the stone .
Hanging Mountain in Sandisfield : This 1,000-foot-long series of southeast facing cliff ranges from 60 to 240 feet in height . Some portions can be unstable . Wear a helmet , especially when belaying , and expect to encounter at least some loose rock .
Happy Valley & The Hideaway in Montague : Two areas representing some of the finer bouldering in the Pioneer Valley . While these are technically two distinct areas , they are located from the same access point and are within a 10-minute hike of one another .
Mormon Hollow in Wendell State Forest , Montague : Just a few miles south and across the Millers River from Farley Ledges . Although Mormon is smaller than Farley , it has impeccable rock quality , a high concentration of routes , and relative solitude .
Rattlesnake Gutter in Leverett : A deep boulder-strewn ravine in Leverett , contains an interesting boulderfield and broken cliffbands where climbing is neither prohibited nor actively managed .
Reservoir Rocks in Great Barrington : Boulders comprised of compact and finely textured Gneiss , which lends itself to technical and aesthetic climbing . Although there does exist a large main face , the spotlight belongs on the fantastic bouldering at “ the Res .”
Roadside Crag in Montague : One mile from the entrance to Wendell State Forest and three quarters of a mile from Mormon Hollow . This tiny cliff offers surprisingly “ pumpy ” but mostly moderate bouldering .
Rose Ledge on Northfield Mountain : One of the region ’ s most popular climbing destinations . The 40 ’– 60 ’ cliff line contains a plethora of climbs for all abilities . It is located off Route 63 .
Skinner in Hadley : On the southern edge of Hadley , inside J . A . Skinner State Park . Modest in size , yet the high quality of both the stone and the routes themselves make Skinner an excellent destination for a solid day of climbing .
Outside Mass ., but still within range and definitely worth noting :
Ragged Mountain : Located three miles west of New Britain , Connecticut , in the town of Southington and Berlin . It is part of the narrow , linear Metacomet Ridge and the largest rock climbing area in Connecticut . raggedmtn . org
The Gunks Cliffs : The Gunks , located near New Paltz , New York , refers to the cliffs of the Shawangunk Ridge . The Gunks is one of the premiere climbing areas in the country . There are no sport climbs . gunksclimbers . org n
Scenes from Hanging Mountain . The listings were sourced , unless otherwise noted , from the Western Mass Climbers ’ Coalition , climbgneiss . org . Make sure to go to the website for access information .
Spring 2023 BERKSHIRE MAGAZINE // 65