Best Guideook Lisa Drewe
Arriving in Llandudno , North Wales , under blue skies and warm sunshine , I felt a surge of optimism . The castellated bulk of Great Orme loomed to my left , while the gentler outline of Little Orme stood to my right . This paddling journey had a different vibe than previous trips ; over the next six months , I would explore Wales ’ s coastline , canals , rivers , and lakes , charting the best paddleboarding spots for a new book . Armed with an Ordnance Survey map and a spirit of adventure , I also had a personal quest : to spot the wildlife inhabiting these waters — particularly dolphins and porpoises . But with a spaniel on board for much of the time , I ’ d be lucky if I spotted an earwig !
I hadn ’ t paddled in Wales since 2011 , when a stormy sea battered me at the aptly named ‘ Storm Gathering ’ kayaking symposium . This time , however , I was prepared . Armed with sturdier sea legs , navigational gear , and a van for overnight stops , I began my warm-up paddle around Great Orme . Soon after , I set my sights on Anglesey . Memories of a whirlpool in the Menai Straits tossing me from my kayak lingered . This time , however , paddling from Britannia Bridge to Beaumaris , passing beautiful islets and the romantic Château Rhianfa , ended not with a swim but a visit to the excellent Central Bakery . Such is the power of experience !
Anglesey ’ s weather was a paradox : brilliant blue skies paired with Force 5 winds . Undeterred , I paddled along its coastline , ticking off places on my wishlist . At Cemlyn Bay , terns dived around me for sand eels , while the hidden coves and the geopark of Llanddwyn Island left me in awe . Yet nature humbled me again , an ebbing spring tide in Traeth Dulas stranded me in its muds , forcing a ‘ walk of shame ’ back to the van - a reminder that not all tides are equal .
From Anglesey , I ventured to the wild coast of the Llŷn Peninsula . Starting with Trefor ’ s sea caves and towering sea stacks , I paddled west
above Ceibr Bay and Witches Cauldron right Stackpole Quay to Barafundle Bay all photos : Lisa Drewe to the Ty Coch Inn , a perfect pub lunch stop after battling the wind . Llŷn ’ s southern coast offered more delights , like the soaring sea arches near Aberdaron and the pebble beach of Porth Meudwy , a charming fishing cove and departure point for Bardsey Island pilgrims . I scanned the waters for porpoises , inspired by stories from my Whale and Dolphin Conservation colleagues , but instead , I was accompanied by curious grey seals , their “ Roman-nosed ” heads bobbing around me , intrigued by the neoprene-clad stranger in their midst .
Paddleboarding
Continuing my journey towards mainland North Wales , I found more to explore beneath the shadows of Criccieth Castle , including learning how to fend off dustbin-lid-sized barrel jellyfish abundant in these waters , all while the ebb carried me toward the next chapter of this adventure .
In North Wales , the combination of mountains and lakes provided breathtaking paddleboarding experiences . Lakes like Llyn Padarn and Llyn Tegid mirrored the rugged peaks of Eryri National Park , while hidden gems like Llyn Cwm Bychan felt worlds away from civilisation . Here , only drystone walls and sheep hint at human presence in a landscape of heather , mossy rocks , and gnarled old oak trees . In contrast to this untamed beauty , the gentler landscapes near Wrexham , with mock Roman forts and canals crossing soaring aqueducts , offered a more serene sense of adventure .
While the lakes and mountains speak to the inland beauty of North Wales , the river estuaries that connect these rugged landscapes to the sea offer an undiscovered playground for the paddler . I had always wanted an excuse to explore the Dwyryd Estuary , so launched from Borth-y-Gest , to paddle upstream past the pastel spires of Portmeirion , and through the ancient woodlands of the Vale of Ffestiniog . A similar experience of shallow waters and shifting tidal sandbars awaited on the Mawddach Estuary , with my journey ending at the George III Hotel for a posh fish-finger sandwich . In contrast , the Conwy Estuary , with its swirling currents and looming Conwy Castle , proved more challenging — a mix of excitement and fear .
In Mid Wales , I found a gentler landscape . Llyn Clywedog offered peaceful paddling with ospreys nested above , while Aberporth revealed stunning routes to Tresaith Waterfall . In New Quay , my wildlife
14 OUTDOOR FOCUS Winter 2024 – 25