< Ring of Brodgar
Narrow streets, Stromness
during the summer months at several
locations, notably at the already
important Ness of Brodgar, a thin strip of
land between the lochs of Stenness and
Harray.
Of more recent history, Orkney makes
no attempt to conceal the impact of its
wartime past. Most evident, and linking
the southern islands, are the so-called
Churchill Barriers built as a defensive
measure to prevent enemy ships and
submarines from entering Scapa Flow,
which housed the bulk of Britain’s fleet
at the time. Two of the four barriers have
now been listed by Historic Environment
Scotland. Travelling through Orkney
today, it’s difficult to imagine the islands
as they were in 1939, a bustling naval
base in constant fear of German U-boats
getting past the inadequate blockship
and net defences. The barriers were
formally opened by the first Lord of the
Admiralty on 12 May 1945: ironically just
in time for the end of the war.
Elsewhere, Hoxa Head near St
Margaret’s on South Ronaldsay is a
good example, there are remains of gun
emplacements, concrete bunkers, watch
towers and memorials from the Second
World War, enough to satisfy even the
most ardent military historian.
For the walker, the opportunities
are comparatively limited. There are
no sizeable hills other than on Hoy,
and even there they don’t make it to
500 metres in height. For the cyclist,
while there is limited scope for off-
road cycling, the roads on Orkney are
generally in good condition, even the
many side roads that criss-cross the
island.
Hoy is more famous for the sea stack,
the Old Man of Hoy. But there are others
– Yesnaby, for example, and a little to
the north of that at the Bay of Burwick
– and if it’s coastal walking you’re after
then you have plenty to go at. Some has
found its way into the St Magnus Way,
GETTING AROUND
The best way to get around
is by car. There are car hire
facilities at the airport:
www.orkneycarhire.co.uk. In
addition, Loganair operates
scheduled island-hopping
flights within Orkney,
linking Mainland with the
northern isles of Eday, North
Ronaldsay, Sanday, Stronsay,
Westray and Papa Westray.
There is a Stagecoach bus
service around Mainland:
www.stagecoachbus.com
Rent a bike from Orkney Cycle
Hire in Stromness:
www.orkneycyclehire.co.uk
Inter-island car ferries are
operated by Orkney Ferries.
If you plan inter-island ferry
travel, be sure to book
ahead…don’t leave things to
chance.
www.orkneyferries.co.uk.
a 55-miles pilgrimage route devised to
coincide with the 900th anniversary
of Magnus’ martyrdom in 2017 on the
island of Egilsay (the only stretch that
isn’t on the Mainland).
For many it will be the wildlife that
brings them to Orkney, and I don’t
mean ‘clubbing’ (of which there is very
little). No, it’s the natural history that
astounds. Killer whale and dolphin often
come right into Kirkwall Bay, and seals
bask all around the coast on anything
that will support their weight. Birdlife
is outstanding, and rarities are blown in
at any time of year to settle among the
seasonally resident long-tailed duck,
Slavonian grebe, black-tailed godwit,
red-throated diver, white-tailed eagle,
whooper swan, puffin, guillemot and
razorbill.
And when – if – you ever have your
fill of Mainland Orkney and the easily
accessible southern islands, there are
the northern isles to keep you occupied.
Rousay in particular is readily accessible
from Tingwall on Mainland, and has a
range of chambered cairns and, arguably,
the finest of the Orkney brochs, that at
Mid Howe.
The more remote islands, however,
require a measure of forward planning.
They are accessible throughout the year,
but the winter ferry timetable operates
between September and early May with
limited options if all you want is a day
trip.
This is a wonderful place, more sky
than land, where the aurora borealis
can catch you out (if you’re lucky),
and the night skies are as dark as can
be. The Orcadian-born writer George
Mackay Brown admirably described
Orkney as ‘…a microcosm of the world…
continuously inhabited for about 6,000
years and the layers of cultures and
races are inescapable and unavoidable
wherever you go.’
In that, he hit the nail on the head.
summer 2019 | Outdoor focus 13