have pen, will travel Tony Howard
opposite the Libyan stand. They were already familiar with our guidebooks to Jordan, so asked if would we could write a guidebook to their Nativity Trail“ for the millennium, in the footsteps of Mary and Joseph 2000 years after the birth of Christ”? And what a delight that was, walking with newfound friends, full of optimism despite the obstacles thrown up by Israel’ s occupation which have only ever gone worse. That gave us the idea of making what became the 670km Jordan Trail, and then doing its initial thru-walk with Jordanian friends.
Little known North East India was also on our tick list:“ If you can keep your head when all about are losing theirs” is one of Kipling’ s better known lines. It also used to be a matter of genuine concern rather than metaphorical for any strangers entering Nagaland. Just a few generations ago they had a notorious reputation as headhunters. I had wanted to go there for years and in 2002 we finally made it. We met the owner of Ashoka Holidays at the World Travel Show and he was interested in developing trekking tours, not only to Nagaland but to other parts of India’ s previously closed north east states. He said,“ You will find some wonderful places in this almost virgin land which remains under-explored. Experienced hands like yours can do a lot of good for this region, which nature has richly bestowed with great variety”. We were in!
To its north and east are Tibet and Myanmar. Within, are about a hundred tribes including the Khasi Hill People, the Nagas, the Abors of the Upper Brahmaputra and the Monpas of the Himalayan region. Though missionary activity means that much of this region is now Christian, there are still animists in remote regions and Tibetan Buddhism gained its first foothold in India on the Himalayan border.
We had three wonderful trips there to regions with welcoming tribal peoples as well as exploring the trekking, canoeing and wildlife safari potential with our Ashoka guide. We were told we were the first foreigners to report the existence of the Living Bridges of Meghalaya- eco-friendly constructions built by the Khasi Hill People by fixing living roots and creepers across the rivers. The following year we were the first to visit a Naga village on Mount Saramati on the Indian- Myammar border, then a closed area. Sadly we abandoned our attempt to climb it when the Nagas we were with shot a bear in the night despite our talk with them earlier in the day to emphasise the value of wild life conservation to future adventure tourism. Such is life.
But they were valuable trips and an exploratory canoe trip down from Bhutan’ s tiger country was excellent as was the later wildlife safari, and seeing tiger tracks made overnight near our jungle camp. Flying out a few days later, the distant Himalayas were shrouded in cloud. To the east, the jungle mountains inhabited by some of the most welcoming, colourful and interesting of India’ s tribal people, rapidly disappeared into the distance, leaving us with more good memories. Ashoka were also happy with our explorations and the photographs and magazine coverage we sent to them.
In summation, I can’ t say we made a living from our adventures- selling Troll in 1995 happily sorted that out- but in addition to income from articles, books, guidebooks and lectures, we often received essential assistance with our actual explorations and I can certainly say they were all wonderful times!
Tony Howard is the author of guides to the Peak District, Romsdal, Wadi Rum, all Jordan and Walks in Palestine.
Also two books: Troll Wall and Quest into the Unknown.
P14 TOP Bedouin seeking shade beneath a lone acacia in Wadi Rum. P14 BELOW Di Taylor high on Sheikh Hamdan’ s Route On Jebel Rum. A great classic Bedouin route. P15 Di Taylor and Mark Khano get a first glimpse of the Gulf of Aqaba whilst exploring a route from Rum for the Jordan Trail. TOP Sheikh Atieq at his camp where he welcomed us to Wadi Rum and said his sons would help our explorations. Second The camp of another Bedouin friend. Wadi Rum is beyond the mountains. Third Mark Khano and Tony exploring the Jordan Trail in north Jordan with the King Talal Dam below. Bottom Sunset over Palestine seen from above the Mujib Gorge on the Jordan Trail.
16 OUTDOOR FOCUS Spring 2026