Via Ferrata above Åndalsnes © Fred Husöy / Norwegian Tindesenter
ROMSDAL
Tony Howard aims high in Norway
G osh , what a stunningly beautiful place !
Despite numerous visits since passing through whilst hitching back from climbing in Lofoten in 1962 , it never ceases to amaze me .
I was there again this summer enjoying beautiful weather . The mountain scenery is unique . It ’ s peaks rise abruptly from close to sea level , or should I say �jord level , to heights mostly around 1450 to 1850 metres . Some summits still retain their slowly shrinking glaciers . Others stand above huge sweeping slabs and ridges rising from the depths of the birch forested valleys to pinnacled summits which , it is said , are home to trolls . The great Trollryggen Pillar , the ascent of which involves around 2500 metres of climbing , almost dwarfs the adjacent 1200 metre Troll Wall , or Trollveggen , Europe ’ s tallest , steepest north face .
At almost 63 ° N , the summer days are long . In fact it ’ s never fully dark and on the big routes we have sometimes climbed through the night . The sun even makes a warm and very welcome , if brief , appearance on the Troll Wall in the early dawns of summer . Climbing in Romsdal dates back to a very early ascent of the impressive Romsdalshorn in 1827 by two local farmers , but it was Slingsby ‘ the father of Norwegian mountaineering ’, who made the �irst real alpine routes . He summited Vengetind 1852m , in 1881 then Kvandalstind 1775m , in 1884 , where he also named a nearby impressive pinnacle which reminded him of Thors Hammer ( now Torshammer ), quoting from Olav Trigvasson ’ s Saga :
“ I am the God Thor , I am the War God , I am the thunderer ! Here in my Northland , My fastness and fortress , Reign I forever !”
Slingsby also climbed the dark truncated tower of the Romsdalshorn in 1884 with his wife Alizon who was the �irst woman to reach the top , commenting “ The mountain is more dif�icult than the Matterhorn when in good condition ”, though I ’ m not so sure about that . But anyway , these days Romsdal is no longer just about traditional climbing and mountaineering to high summits . There are now routes at all grades to site all people , including single pitch as well as the big walls and mountain routes . As elsewhere , the climbing game has changed and there are now also a multitude of sport climbs , some on roadside cliffs , many fully bolted , as well as via ferratas .
Nor is Romsdal just about rock climbing . There are , of course , some beautiful valley walks in inspirational scenery , plus scrambles and treks in the higher mountains , often with awesome views into the valleys below . Or if you feel like an easy day , there is now even a gondola to the top of the mountain above Åndalsnes , the small town by the Romsdalsford where the Norwegian Tindesenter ( Mountain Centre ) is located . I could go on , but I hope the photos ( on page 12 ) will tell their own story .
Useful links Norwegian Mountain Centre : www . tindesenteret . no / en Reinheimen National Park www . norgesnasjonalparker . no / en / nationalparks / reinheimen Norwegian Guidebooks Fra topp til topp i Romsdal Romsdal Sports Klatring Klatring i Romsdal Books by the author Climbs , Scrambles and Walks in Romsdal Troll Wall Quest into the Unknown
14 outdoor focus / autumn 2022