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JUN/JUL 2018
BORN OF FIRE| THE RESURGENCE OF BOULDERING IN CENTRAL OREGON
WORDS AND PHOTOS BY JASON CHINCHEN
You may have seen the strange “pad people” on the river trail carrying their large foam
crash pads, and for the uninitiated we look like we are packed for a multi-day adventure
or headed out to take a nap in the woods. “Bouldering” is the sport of climbing smaller
rocks without the aid of a rope or safety gear other than large foam pads that are used to
break a fall and protect climbers from twisted and bruised feet or butts.
Rock climbing has been one of Central Oregon’s outdoor draws for many years. With
world class climbing just up the road at Smith Rock State Park, it’s no surprise there are
other small rocks hiding amongst the trees and along the river near Bend. People have
been bouldering here since the 70’s, but the bouldering in Central Oregon has been a
closely guarded secret, and although the climbing is all on public lands, it has not been
shared freely until recently. Now, with the introduction of the new “Central Oregon Boul-
dering” guidebook, the information is available and a new and open community of climb-
ers has come together to experience a rebirth of bouldering here in the high desert.
As with many outdoor pursuits, bouldering is a great way to spend time in the outdoors,
especially with friends and family. It is a perfect group activity and the easygoing nature of
the sport gives it a relaxed and fun vibe. You can also find personal growth and the ability
to progress by interacting with the rock and learning better and more efficient ways to
move and solve the climb at hand. Bouldering is also a great way to train for power and
difficulty in preparation for climbing routes with ropes and gear.
Boulderers (yes, thats a word) look for a pathway up the rock using the natural textures
and features to climb it to the top. Each pathway is called a “problem” and can be rated
for difficulty using the “V” system devised by legendary dirtbag John Sherman. Problems
are rated from V0 to V16 and usually given a memorable name. The hardest problem in
Central Oregon, “The Goblin”, is a V11 put up by the quiet local legend, Logan Carr and
had seen few repeats until recently.
In the end, bouldering is all about community and enjoying the sunny days of Central
Oregon with friends. See you out there!
For more info and stoke check out the new Central Oregon Bouldering guidebook at
www.centraloregonbouldering.com , available locally at Mountain Supply, Dudleys books
and Redpoint Climbers Supply in Terrebonne. Also make sure you follow the Instagram
and Facebook pages.
You can also see some of the amazing local bouldering on Youtube in the short film called
“Born Of Fire” produced by Jason Chinchen and Pop Motions Pictures last year.
To get involved in stewardship, follow the newly formed “High Desert Climbers Alliance”.
Left: Sara Violett crushing “The
Middle” V7.
Bottom right: Brian Russell holds the
swing on the ultra-classic “Ground
Chuck” V5.
Bottom left: Jason Caron on “Here’s
Johnny” at Meadow Camp.
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