34 » OpenRoad Driver
Crossing Berlin’s Bridge of Spies into
former East Germany, our motorcoach
stops at Sanssouci, Frederick the Great’s
elegant palace in Potsdam. Famous for
his military prowess, Frederick’s extensive
palace gardens, terraced orchards and
potato-strewn gravesite reflect his interest
and influence in farm methods.
Aboard Astrid, our sleek riverboat,
daily excursions feature World Heritage
sites around Wittenberg. Among these,
Wörlitzer Park and Gardens highlight
Prince Leopold III’s landscaping
innovations and direction in advancing
architecture, agriculture and education.
When dry weather prevents navigation,
motorcoaches carry us along modern
highways above the shallow Elbe River.
Passing between huge grain fields, lush
pastures and countless wind turbines,
we enter Germany’s prosperous state of
Saxony.
Meissen’s renowned Porcelain Manufactory
makes a perfect stop. A large portrait
dominates the upstairs foyer. “That’s
Augustus II, an early Imperial Vicar…
and founder of our porcelain industry,”
our guide Anna declares. “Employing
superb modelers and painters, his factories
produced high-quality European porcelain
tableware and figurines. This made
Saxony very prosperous, even during the
communist era.”
Downstairs, shelves display red stoneware,
the forerunner of porcelain. In three
studios, artisans demonstrate the process
of moulding clay pieces, slipping items
together and applying coloured enamels
used since 1723. Onsite galleries exemplify
three centuries of stunning porcelain
artistry.
Shuttled onward to a hillside
neighbourhood, we gradually climb toward
two Gothic 13th-century structures.
“Augustus II’s ancestors lay interred in
Meissen Cathedral,” Anna notes. “The
adjacent Albrechtsburg Castle housed his
first porcelain factory. Porcelain’s inventor,
Böttger, lived there as manager.”
A cobbled road takes us down to the old
market square. Among interesting shops,
one sells a huge selection of aromatic
A gilded equestrian statue of Augustus II faces the
Elbe River and Dresden, his beloved baroque creation.
German sausage. Entering Meissen’s
Church of Our Lady, we discover
intriguing religious artwork, including a
porcelain carillon.
That evening, we board Beyla. Moored in
the historic heart of Dresden, our balcony
embraces the spectacular gold-crowned
State Chancellery and waterside parkland.
Our dining room is decorated to celebrate
Oktoberfest and the 25th anniversary of
German reunification. Festive oompah-
pah polkas accompany the tasty bratwurst,
pretzels, local beer and apple strudel.
The next morning, Anna leads a walking
tour. “World War II’s firebombing
devastated Dresden,” she notes. “In time,
our citizens urged communist officials
and international donors to restore its
splendour. So today you’ll be touring
Augustus II’s baroque creation, long touted
as the Florence of the North.”
Skirting the palatial, glass-domed
Academy of Arts, our tour continues along
the riverside promenade past other ornate
buildings. Sculptures of world-renowned
composers decorate the perimeter of
Semperoper Opera House. Just beyond
rises Dresden Cathedral, constructed by
Augustus II’s son. Inside, a white porcelain
altar portrays Mary embracing her son
Jesus. In a separate chamber, a royal crypt
holds Augustus II’s heart.
Nearby, his colossal Zwinger Palace
surrounds a grassy courtyard. On the
opposite side, a pathway takes us under an
archway topped with a porcelain clock and
beside former stables to the Green Vault.
“Augustus II opened his museum to the
public in 1723,” recounts Anna. “Still
comprising one of Europe’s largest art
collections, I’ll be highlighting some of
his highly prized treasures.” Among them,
a wonderfully crafted gold and ivory
clock drops balls that spiral downward to
measure minutes. In another glass case,
a game chest’s inlaid hardwood exterior
delightfully depicts Hannibal’s battle for
Rome. And an incredible 50-inch ivory
sailing ship features wafer-thin sails, tiny
realistic sailors and gold cannons. In the
hallway, precious stones form flamboyant
mosaics of tropical birds. An adjoining
chamber exhibits the most spectacular.