OH! Magazine - Australian Version October 2015 | Page 28

( Where, Oh Where? )

THE MANY DELIGHTS OF
MARGARET RIVER

After a visit to Western Australia’s Margaret River region, a beach
holiday may never be quite the same again. Toni Krasicki explains.
ookended by Cape Naturaliste in
the north and Cape Leeuwin in the
south, and hemmed in by giant karri
forests to the east, the Margaret River
region just three-hours drive from Perth,
lives up to it’s fine reputation. Best known
for its boutique wineries and craft beer,
gorgeous
and
sometimes-deserted
beaches, and of course the internationally
renowned surf breaks, ‘Margs’ certainly is
hip and happening.

B

The Byron Bay of the west coast minus
the year-round crowds, this compact and
diverse region attracts foodies, wine
buffs, nature lovers and water babes to
its pristine shores. Although East
Coasters are more likely to get a beach fix
in Queensland, Fiji, Bali or Thailand, a
trip across the red centre to the far side
of the continent will definitely change
your thinking. Here are some of the
things that blew me away and might do it
to you too.
Cape to Cape
Hikers can tackle the 135km Cape-toCape Track that hugs the extraordinary
coastline, connecting Cape Naturaliste in
the north to Cape Leeuwin in the south.
The terrain alternates between rugged
granite headlands, sheer limestone cliffs,
and wild and often isolated sandy
beaches. In several places the track loops
inland over the ridge and passes through
woodland and forests. There are currently
four wild walk-in only campsites on the
track, access to three National Park and
Wildlife campsites, as well as caravan
parks. Alternatively, ditch the sleeping
bag and choose the five-star option and
slip in between clean sheets every night.
Go it alone, or join a tour operator such as

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OCTOBER 2015 ( OH! MAGAZINE )

Cape-to-Cape Explorer Tours who offer
fully guided or self-guided assisted tours,
and if you’re short on time, they also run
day trips on the northern part of the
track, featuring some highlights.
Shine a Light
Under the watchful eye of the Cape
Leeuwin lighthouse, the mighty Southern
and Indian Oceans meet in nothing more
than a messy ripple. This is the most
south westerly point on the Australian
mainland, and when I visit in March, the
view from the 39m tall lighthouse is
mostly obscured by a shroud of fog
(apparently, most uncommon).
Luckily for me, the fog does eventually
clear so I manage to see the expanse of
the ocean and the windswept grounds
where countless lighthouse-keepers and
their families lived. Take the audio tour,
which is rich with tales of shipwrecks, life
at the Cape and the marine life. In
contrast, the Cape Naturaliste lighthouse
on the north cape is less impressive at
only 20m. Situated on a hill, it’s given a
natural lift and so still manages to offer
sweeping views down the west coast and
along the Geographe Bay coast.
What Lies Beneath
The Leeuwin Naturaliste Ridg e lies
beneath the coastal link road, Caves
Road, which is riddled with hundreds of
caves. However, only a few are open for
exploration. Start off with an easy MP3
self-guided audio tour of Mammoth Cave,
and work your way up to the more
adventurous Moondyne and Ngilg Cave
adventure tours that take cavers off the
beaten boardwalk and by torchlight in to

the darkest caverns (seasonal). Join a
guided tour of Lake Cave to ooh and ahh
at the pretty permanent water feature
that reflects the usual stalactites and
stalagmites, but also the unique
‘Suspended Table’ that hovers just inches
above the waterline. Jewel Cave is the
largest show cave in Western Australia,
and with three cathedral-like caverns,
there are plenty of flowstones, shawls,
stalactites, stalagmites, and mega fauna
fossils to keep even the jaded caver
enthralled.
Take the Plunge
The beaches – wow! All that powdery and
blindingly white sand, sapphire seas and
gin coloured water will have you thinking
you’ve landed in the Maldives. From cape
to cape, seasoned surfers will find a surf
break that’s pumping, if not at any of the
world-renowned surf spots, than in any of
the nooks and crannies in between.
For newbies, surf schools are plentiful, as
are Stand Up Paddleboarding lessons.
Divers can explore the 113m Swan Wreck
that was scuttled off Dunsborough in
1997. In its former life, the HMAS Swan
was a Royal Australian Navy River Class
Destroyer Escort, these days its covered
in coral and supports an abundance of
marine life, perfect for all levels of diver
experience.
Other ways to explore the waters include
kayaking, snorkelling, sailing and kite
surfing – whatever way, just be sure to
explore.

Gas Bay