October 2020 | Page 46

ules Opton-Himmel and team ran an oyster farm, launched a home delivery shellfish business and opened the Walrus and Carpenter Oyster Bar and Farmstand in the middle of a pandemic. JNot every farmer would have the drive and skills to do all of this at the same time, but when the oyster farmer saw his sales to restaurants plummet during the COVID-19 shutdown, he knew he had to do something to move his product quickly. In March and April, the bivalves were rapidly growing inside cages below the surface in Ninigret Pond in Charlestown and Dutch Harbor in Jamestown, and if he didn’t clear them out, there’d be no room for the next batch of seed to grow the next generation of oysters. During the beginning of the COVID-19 crisis early this spring, many farms found themselves pivoting business models out of necessity. As restaurant closures halted distribution from greenhouses, fields and the bay to dining room tables, purveyors had to find new ways to sell produce and proteins to consumers at home. Many farms created websites where customers could order products directly and pick them up curbside or have food delivered, and others teamed up with Farm Fresh Rhode Island’s Market Mobile and the WhatsGood local food delivery app to offer goods dropped directly on customers’ doorsteps. Farms like Walrus and Carpenter, Deep Roots, Gnarly Vines, Pat’s Pastured and Brandon Family Farm all created their own retail websites, and some of them teamed up with other food producers, fishers, makers and farms to expand available inventory. Many of these savvy farmers learned these adaptable tech skills through networking with other emerging and established farmers in Southeastern New England. “Those who were able to go down that path, benefited from it,” says Ken Ayars, chief of the Department of Agriculture at the Rhode Island Department of Environmental Management. “I’ve heard from talking to many farmers and fishers that some of them did better than they have ever done this year by using that technology.” Unfortunately, not every farmer has the technical skills to launch digital initiatives, delivery and pickup. But the convenience is here to stay now that COVID-19 made it 44 RHODE ISLAND MONTHLY l OCTOBER 2020