295 YORK Neighbourhood .... Downtown Address ........ 295 York Ave Phone ........ 204‐986‐7275 Entrées ............$ 24- $ 43
The menu bills 295 York as a “ modern steakhouse ”, a perfectly fitting description for the stylish downtown spot . Those looking for classic fare will not be disappointed by a selection of cuts including filet mignon and New York Strip Loin with signature sauces and sides , as well as riffs on steakhouse staples , such as the tomato salad with a smoked buttermilk dressing . A selection of sides , from the omnipresent mashed potato to hip offerings like a high brow mac n ’ cheese with truffle and herbs , can be added to the meal .
However , other menu selections take up the “ modern ” mantle with gusto . Appetizers are a collection of culinary adventures , wild collisions of cuisines and tastes that come together seamlessly on the plate . The pulled duck quesadilla , a show-stopper by the first course , arrives in a row of sushi-sized rolls , each piece topped with cilantro crème fraîche . The deep , earthy meat , slathered in hoisin sauce , is in perfect harmony with the herbaceous topping , as well as the spicy aioli smeared across the plate .
Korean beef shortribs , imbued with flavour from a ponzu marinade , pull from classic bibimbap flavours with fiery red chili sauce and cool cucumber . The crab cakes , crunchy and dotted with black sesame seeds , play on fusion food , plated between duelling dollops of spicy mango chutney and caper tartar sauce .
Entrees are equally impressive . Grilled Alaskan lingcod , encased in a salty crust , flakes into soft white layers that melt into the pillow of rich wild mushroom risotto below . Bright , ciao ! reviews
grassy shaved asparagus , heaped on top of the fish , lightens the effect . The lamb duo , a house specialty , perfectly encapsulates the blend of traditional and contemporary . Supremely tender bulbs of lamb , smacking of tangy tamarind , are laid on top of a pillowy roti stuffed with spiced chickpeas and braised lamb , and topped with a green chili puree .
Complementary , house-made , and very fluffy focaccia accompanies the meal , with a pat of herb and olive oil butter .
Conscientious and knowledgeable servers spell out the lowdown on a changing crème brûlée and sorbet flavour , but dark chocolate torte is a constant that shouldn ’ t be skipped . Rich but light mousse draped in velvety ganache and accented with a trail of crumbled cookie sits across the plate from a ball of caramel gelato with an addictively salty twist .
295 York is open for lunch Tue-Fri 11:30 am-1:30 pm , for dinner Tue- Thu 5 pm-9 pm , Fri 5 pm-10 pm , and Sat 5 pm-11 pm .
THE PALM LOUNGE Neighbourhood .... Downtown Address .... 222 Broadway Ave Phone ........ 204‐942-8251 Entrées ............$ 13- $ 31
Most major cities have a grande dame luxury hotel – architectural and historical landmarks that stood as a symbol of elegance and refined entertaining . The jewel of these public spaces was the hotel ’ s dining room where white-gloved waiters served beef on the bone from silver-domed trolleys , and sparkling couples dined on Oysters Rockefeller and French champagne . As times and tastes changed , some dowager restaurants are unable or unwilling to renovate . Not so with this city ’ s Fort Garry Hotel . Its Palm Lounge has undergone the chef ’ s knife , ensuring this century-old establishment remains a vibrant dining destination .
The hotel has maintained the beautiful bones of its 100-seat , ovalshaped dining room and lounge , and still serves weary travellers and locals alike bevvies , appies , meals and late night snacks . A wall of windows lets in sunshine or the fading glow of an autumn afternoon . In the evening , the room glitters with light from an antique chandelier suspended from the ceiling ’ s centre dome . Tables are flanked by tufted leather club chairs , as classic as the ebony grand piano played every evening by one of Winnipeg ’ s jazz stars .
It ’ s chef de cuisine Stephan Marchan , though , who has updated the culinary experience by elevating flavours of homestyle comfort food .
Sunday dinners and meatloaf Mondays can be relived with menu choices like flash roasted half chicken or veal meatloaf . Poultry , along with aromatic stuffing , fingerling potatoes , and steamed rapini , is served atop a generous lake of gravy while tomato sauce cloaks the moist meatloaf . New York style pizzas with offbeat pairings like portobello mushrooms , goat cheese and alfredo , or grilled chicken and vegetables , basil , and olive oil , reveal this kitchen ’ s diversity . Salads are bright and satisfying . A mesclun mix studded with grilled vegetables and wild salmon is dressed in sharp shallot vinaigrette .
Shareables , like Italian style antipasto and chicken liver brûlée make a new statement on two classics . House-brined vegetables and speck ( a cured meat of northern Italy with hints of laurel , juniper and pepper ) give this snack zing . The chicken liver pâté infused with port , bandy and madeira adds depth to a creamy mouthfeel punctuated by its crackly caramelized crust .
ciao ! / oct / nov / two thousand fourteen 39