295 YORK Neighbourhood.... Downtown Address........ 295 York Ave Phone........ 204‐986‐7275 Entrées............$ 24- $ 43
The menu bills 295 York as a“ modern steakhouse”, a perfectly fitting description for the stylish downtown spot. Those looking for classic fare will not be disappointed by a selection of cuts including filet mignon and New York Strip Loin with signature sauces and sides, as well as riffs on steakhouse staples, such as the tomato salad with a smoked buttermilk dressing. A selection of sides, from the omnipresent mashed potato to hip offerings like a high brow mac n’ cheese with truffle and herbs, can be added to the meal.
However, other menu selections take up the“ modern” mantle with gusto. Appetizers are a collection of culinary adventures, wild collisions of cuisines and tastes that come together seamlessly on the plate. The pulled duck quesadilla, a show-stopper by the first course, arrives in a row of sushi-sized rolls, each piece topped with cilantro crème fraîche. The deep, earthy meat, slathered in hoisin sauce, is in perfect harmony with the herbaceous topping, as well as the spicy aioli smeared across the plate.
Korean beef shortribs, imbued with flavour from a ponzu marinade, pull from classic bibimbap flavours with fiery red chili sauce and cool cucumber. The crab cakes, crunchy and dotted with black sesame seeds, play on fusion food, plated between duelling dollops of spicy mango chutney and caper tartar sauce.
Entrees are equally impressive. Grilled Alaskan lingcod, encased in a salty crust, flakes into soft white layers that melt into the pillow of rich wild mushroom risotto below. Bright, ciao! reviews
grassy shaved asparagus, heaped on top of the fish, lightens the effect. The lamb duo, a house specialty, perfectly encapsulates the blend of traditional and contemporary. Supremely tender bulbs of lamb, smacking of tangy tamarind, are laid on top of a pillowy roti stuffed with spiced chickpeas and braised lamb, and topped with a green chili puree.
Complementary, house-made, and very fluffy focaccia accompanies the meal, with a pat of herb and olive oil butter.
Conscientious and knowledgeable servers spell out the lowdown on a changing crème brûlée and sorbet flavour, but dark chocolate torte is a constant that shouldn’ t be skipped. Rich but light mousse draped in velvety ganache and accented with a trail of crumbled cookie sits across the plate from a ball of caramel gelato with an addictively salty twist.
295 York is open for lunch Tue-Fri 11:30 am-1:30 pm, for dinner Tue- Thu 5 pm-9 pm, Fri 5 pm-10 pm, and Sat 5 pm-11 pm.
THE PALM LOUNGE Neighbourhood.... Downtown Address.... 222 Broadway Ave Phone........ 204‐942-8251 Entrées............$ 13- $ 31
Most major cities have a grande dame luxury hotel – architectural and historical landmarks that stood as a symbol of elegance and refined entertaining. The jewel of these public spaces was the hotel’ s dining room where white-gloved waiters served beef on the bone from silver-domed trolleys, and sparkling couples dined on Oysters Rockefeller and French champagne. As times and tastes changed, some dowager restaurants are unable or unwilling to renovate. Not so with this city’ s Fort Garry Hotel. Its Palm Lounge has undergone the chef’ s knife, ensuring this century-old establishment remains a vibrant dining destination.
The hotel has maintained the beautiful bones of its 100-seat, ovalshaped dining room and lounge, and still serves weary travellers and locals alike bevvies, appies, meals and late night snacks. A wall of windows lets in sunshine or the fading glow of an autumn afternoon. In the evening, the room glitters with light from an antique chandelier suspended from the ceiling’ s centre dome. Tables are flanked by tufted leather club chairs, as classic as the ebony grand piano played every evening by one of Winnipeg’ s jazz stars.
It’ s chef de cuisine Stephan Marchan, though, who has updated the culinary experience by elevating flavours of homestyle comfort food.
Sunday dinners and meatloaf Mondays can be relived with menu choices like flash roasted half chicken or veal meatloaf. Poultry, along with aromatic stuffing, fingerling potatoes, and steamed rapini, is served atop a generous lake of gravy while tomato sauce cloaks the moist meatloaf. New York style pizzas with offbeat pairings like portobello mushrooms, goat cheese and alfredo, or grilled chicken and vegetables, basil, and olive oil, reveal this kitchen’ s diversity. Salads are bright and satisfying. A mesclun mix studded with grilled vegetables and wild salmon is dressed in sharp shallot vinaigrette.
Shareables, like Italian style antipasto and chicken liver brûlée make a new statement on two classics. House-brined vegetables and speck( a cured meat of northern Italy with hints of laurel, juniper and pepper) give this snack zing. The chicken liver pâté infused with port, bandy and madeira adds depth to a creamy mouthfeel punctuated by its crackly caramelized crust.
ciao! / oct / nov / two thousand fourteen 39