Oct/Nov 2015 Feb/Mar 2014 | Page 30

BONFIRE BISTRO Neighbourhood .. River Heights Address ..... 1433 Corydon Ave Phone ........ 204-487-4440 Entrées .............$ 18-27
The crackle and aroma of smouldering oak , evoking campfire coziness greets patrons as they drop into an eatery that ’ s been setting appetites ablaze for 12 years . This is Bonfire Bistro , owned by Duncan Grant of Cafe Carlo and Burrito Del Rio .
Bistros are about refined simplicity , rustic food and wine served in an understated environment . Grant ’ s restaurant upholds this standard . The walls are lined with photos of villas and cottages along the Mediterranean coast . Though the dining rooms are open concept , with tables nestled closely , dangling pendant lamps
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project a sense of personal space .
The chatter of families and couples , both young and old , emanate everywhere , yet intimate conversation isn ’ t drowned out .
The main likeness to other bistro menus here is in chef Randy Khounnoraj ’ s use of fresh ingredients , which he deems essential for great cuisine . What sets it apart is the oakfired oven , searing flavour in each dish , and the nuance injected into food typically regarded for boldness .
These principles are apparent in the restaurant ' s mainstay pizzas , built on freshness and purposeful pairings with charred undertones . Portobello , porcini , and oyster mushrooms cap the wild mushroom pizza . Because creamy blue cheese draws its colour and flavour from fungi during the ripening process , it pairs perfectly with these mushrooms . Heaps of sundried tomatoes , green onions , and fresh basil clutter the spicy prawn pizza . Its cool chunks of goat cheese contrasts with Sriracha sauce .
The gem of the menu is the paella , served in a cast iron skillet hot from the bonfire . The effect is a rich flavour imbued with smokiness . With one bite briny clams and mussels contrast with sweet prawns and scallops , the next , chorizo sausage adds a fiery bite .
Mussels are a signature of bistro dining , and this eatery sticks to the time-tested , silky pernod cream sauce and herbs . Most appetizers are served with grilled Portuguese water bread , deliciously charred in the oak oven and ideal for sponging soupy leftovers .
Dependability , consistently and Mediterranean mainstays singed with oak keep this neighbourhood haunt smouldering , and patrons flocking back for more .
Bonfire Bistro is open Mon to Sat for lunch 11:30-2:30 , for dinner 4:30- 10:30 ; Sun 4:30-9:30 .
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