in the kitchen
fry techniques, noodle recipes and the practice of eating meat more regularly and in larger quantities. Portuguese missionaries brought non-indigenous spices and ingredients, such as a variety of chiles and papayas, for which they developed a taste while exploring Latin America. Curries, now integral to Thai cuisine, were introduced through international trade with India. The contribution of these outside influences, from cooking methods to foreign ingredients, are at the heart of Thailand’ s cuisine.
Vileth and Toui are building on the threads of this overseas narrative. In searching to stay true to flavour profiles of their native cuisine, they must look for readily available Canadian produce to mimic familiar textures or tastes. embarking on a journey through Southeast Asia, to seek counsel and a crash-course on Thai food. In this role, he is given occasion to exalt the virtues of his home country, and help others understand Thai culture.
He enthusiastically explains the guiding philosophy of Thai cuisine, harmony of taste. The interplay between sweet, spicy, sour, bitter and salty is the foundation for each dish. Furthermore, sauces play starring roles in Thai cuisine. This is why, despite adaptations that are made to recipes, the relationship between the components remains. Walking the line between retaining tradition, while engaging with a new culture, is all a part of the process of adaptation that comes with immigration. Making a business inhabiting that
“ Within the seemingly disparate elements of that one dish, lies the long history of colonization, immigration and foreign trade that make up modern Thai cuisine.”
This translation accounts for shaved carrot in papaya salad and peas in curries. Inevitably, interpretation includes the added challenge of adapting their native cuisine to Canadian palates. In these instances, Vileth and Toui transcend their roles as business owner and chef, and bear the mantle of cultural ambassadors.
Most obviously, this can mean introducing a number scale to indicate the spice level of a dish, to ease Canadians into the extreme heat associated with Thai cuisine. Keen observations are imperative, such as replacing guylain with broccoli in most dishes. It is similar in texture but lacks the bitter component that many Canadians have an aversion to. At times, their role is to encourage returning patrons to expand their epicurean horizons, by challenging them to try new dishes or up the spice level.
Vileth reveals that would-be travellers will often visit Bangkok Thai before murky space between cultures, like Vileth and Toui do, is a remarkable and impressive feat. However, the ability to celebrate the vibrancy of your homeland with others, while simultaneously integrating with, and building upon, the community of your new country, is a uniquely Canadian phenomenon. Oddly, there are similarities between the evolution of Thai cuisine, with it’ s many outside influences, and the everchanging Canadian identity. Both are distinctly multicultural, something Thai-born Vileth and Chinese-born Toui, understand well.
Toui wields a wok Chinese-style at Bangkok Thai everyday, piling Canadian salmon and produce, alongside Asian lemongrass, in Indian-inspired curries laden with Latin-American chiles. These ingredients, from all the far-flung corners of the earth, simmer together to create one richly-bodied dish. Each component, rendered more distinct with the addition of the others.
16 ciao! / feb / mar / two thousand fourteen