Oct/Nov 2015 Dec/Jan 2014 | Page 58

sponge cake with sponge toffee , cappuccino foam , caramel cream and chocolate ganache .
Food Evolution is open for lunch Tue-Sat 11 am-2 pm , for dinner Tue- Thu & Sun 5 pm-9 pm , Fri & Sat 5 pm-10 pm , and for brunch Sun 9 am-1 pm .
THE MITCHELL BLOCK Neighbourhood .... Downtown Address .... 173 McDermot Ave Phone ........ 204-949-9032 Entrées ............$ 20- $ 29
Nestled in the red brick and wrought iron heart of the Exchange District , a stylish black and white sign beckons passers-by into a restaurant poised to send an electric jolt into the lifeblood of contemporary cuisine .
Chef Sean McKay and his father and business partner Reed McKay purchased the space over a year ago , and re-branded as The Mitchell Block last summer . With a new identity to call their own came a menu of eclectic and energizing dishes founded on McKay ’ s own whims , tastes and intuitions .
Mediterranean influences held over from the Tre Visi days can be spied in the house made pasta and dishes incorporating shellfish , figs , and chorizo . Other dishes in the wide-ranging menu skip playfully between countries and continents to bring out unexpected flavours , like jambon de bayonne with dates , Morrocan olives , and Camembert cheese .
Classic preparation amped up with unexpected ingredients shows McKay has kitchen prowess that would make Escoffier proud . Chicketta , cooked sous-vide and then pan fried , drips juice and tenderness , and is topped with a ciao ! reviews
smattering of salty chevre and a sweet fig demi glace . Meltingly thin carpaccio , reimagined with bison , caper vierge and preserved egg yolks , is served under crispy deep-fried beef tendons for a study in textural contrasts .
The space lends well to detailed plating that gives every dish masterpiece flair . Crisp white linens signal fine dining , while brightly coloured abstract art gives a mod edge to an industrial warehouse interior that oozes classy cool .
Warm , seasoned focaccia as a prompt first course is accompanied by a whipped butter du jour . A pretty pink spread incorporating cranberries and red wine vinaigrette offers the palate tart and sweet excitement usually reserved for later courses .
Familiar flavour combinations get a reboot as well . Bacon-wrapped pork tenderloin trades applesauce for a drizzle of apple butter . A mound of curly , crispy deep fried spaetzle , kicky sauerkraut , and candied walnuts round out the dish . Caesar salad expounds on a classic with preserved egg yolks adding creamy depth to the tangy dressing .
House made pastas are stellar . Pillow-soft gnocchi is doused in a thick cream sauce that gives garden-fresh taste to a comforting dish with the addition of fresh dill . Saffron-sauced fettuccine with prawns , roasted corn , and chorizo is a Spanish paella with a kick of Italian flair .
A sultry finish to a sensual meal , rich flourless dark chocolate cake set in a swirl of whiskey butterscotch is heavenly , accompanied by a sprinkle of crunchy candied almonds and a scoop of vanilla ice cream .
The Mitchell Block is open Monday to Wednesday 11:30 am to 2:30 pm and 5pm to 9 pm , and Thursday to Saturday 11:30 am to 2:30 pm and 5 pm to 10 pm .
SMITH Neighbourhood .... Downtown Address ... 75 Forks Market Rd . Phone ........ 204-944-2445 Entrées ............$ 16- $ 36
In recent years , a turn back to traditional craftsmanship , simple preparation of beautiful ingredients , and focus on local fare has swept the culinary world , resulting in an eager wave of chefs ready to cut their teeth on new applications of overlooked ingredients . Smith does just this , with the bearing of culinary mastery . Melding the now burgeoning arena of regional cuisine with a nod back to nostalgia , the restaurant is a wellexecuted mix of Canadian comforts .
The imagination at the helm , chef Alex Svenne , has smoothly transitioned from neighbourhood bistro ( Bistro 7 ¼ ) to developing food for masses . The vast space inside Inn at the Forks welcomes on-site hotel guests and local culinarians with Canadiana at every turn . Hudson Bay blanket striped banquette seating , tree stump tables set near hunter plaid lounge seats , and deer antler chandeliers transform a corporate hotel into a stylish backwoods cottage .
Hunger pangs at all hours of the day are embraced , as the restaurant welcomes breakfast , lunch , dinner , and late night clientele . Morning choices provide a reason to rise and shine with hearty farm-style offerings like the red flannel hash , paying a tribute to winter with beets and potatoes , or the hearty cinnamon bun bread pudding .
Hunter farmer dishes of wild game like bison , duck , and Heritage Farms chicken are fine-tuned to celebrate our country ’ s bounty . House preserved pickles and sauerkraut ( with house-made kielbasa ) pay tribute to Manitoba ’ s pioneer spirit
56 ciao ! / dec / jan / two thousand fourteen