ciao! reviews
HAUTE DÉCOR
Some may say the most beautiful restaurant Winnipeg has ever seen.
We say beauty is only part of it. The food is pretty smashing too.
295 York Avenue 204.896.7275 www. 295york. com eschew popular pairings for new flavour combinations with added depth. Lightly charred Brussels sprouts are tossed with ruby red grapefruit wedges in a bright dish that plays the light astringency of the sprouts and grapefruit against the salty spice of chorizo and cool, tangy crème fraiche. Bagshaw ' s roasted beets take the fashionable root vegetable in a new direction with molecular gastronomy flair. Thick almond gel swiped across the plate provides bedding for the jewel tone slices, topped with a light drizzle of buttermilk dressing and a generous scattering of microgreens and almonds. Prosciutto-wrapped pears finish the dish, in a combination that trumps melon with the green pears’ bright, citrusy notes.
On every plate, nothing is placed by accident; every element of the dish is thoughtful, a study of sophisticated flavour and depth. Duck confit graces the plate on a smear of funky black garlic, while roasted cauliflower is paired with wedges of apple and placed on a puree of cauliflower imbued with a red curry kick. Soft shell crab luxuriates in a sauce of its own broth, and roasted crimini mushrooms draped in truffle aioli bring earthy depth to a stack of flatbread and crispy chickpeas.
Even bar snack inspired offerings deserve rave reviews, like a mix of smoked nuts that arrive, still warm, in a heaping, fragrant bowl, slick with slightly floral oil and sea salt. Roasted warm olives electrified with a spicy pop of pepper are almost too addictive for sharing.
From the first plate to grace the table to the last, Enoteca presents a carefully crafted symphony of flavour that hits all the right notes.
Enoteca is open Tu-Thu 5 pm-11 pm, Fri & Sat 5 pm-2 am, and Sun 5 pm-11 pm.
FOOD EVOLUTION Neighbourhood. North Kildonan Address........ 2015 Main St Phone........ 204-284-7275 Entrées............$ 13- $ 25
The city’ s second largest park, famed for its summer stage productions, has been absent of food service to speak of, until this year. In fact, Food Evolution might be considered a culinary gift to the city’ s North End, which has evaded entrepreneurial advances influencing how and what we eat. Judging from the multi-generational crowd filling the open concept room, this newest Wow! Hospitality restaurant is rewarding the patience of a community ripe with anticipation.
As the name suggests, food is changing, and under the tutelage of imaginative chef Michael Dacquisto, old is what is new – and exciting. Dacquisto’ s experience cooking regional cuisine goes back to days helming the kitchen at Green Gates, one of the city’ s first regional cuisine focused dining destinations. More than 15 years later, interpretations of local fare are trending more furiously than ever, and staples from the kitchens of Manitoba homes are appearing in fresh, playful ways.
It stands to reason that Manitoba Regional Cuisine – food that reflects its land and its people – would take many forms across this city. While our prairie province produces a plethora of ingredients for chefs to play with, an ever-evolving population bolstered by immigration provides plenty of inspiration. The more elusive, yet essential ingredient for restaurant success is an ability to identify the spirit of its neighbourhood.
Food Evolution does just this, a beacon in the centre of North
54 ciao! / dec / jan / two thousand fourteen