ciao ! reviews
HAUTE DÉCOR
Some may say the most beautiful restaurant Winnipeg has ever seen .
We say beauty is only part of it . The food is pretty smashing too .
295 York Avenue 204.896.7275 www . 295york . com eschew popular pairings for new flavour combinations with added depth . Lightly charred Brussels sprouts are tossed with ruby red grapefruit wedges in a bright dish that plays the light astringency of the sprouts and grapefruit against the salty spice of chorizo and cool , tangy crème fraiche . Bagshaw ' s roasted beets take the fashionable root vegetable in a new direction with molecular gastronomy flair . Thick almond gel swiped across the plate provides bedding for the jewel tone slices , topped with a light drizzle of buttermilk dressing and a generous scattering of microgreens and almonds . Prosciutto-wrapped pears finish the dish , in a combination that trumps melon with the green pears ’ bright , citrusy notes .
On every plate , nothing is placed by accident ; every element of the dish is thoughtful , a study of sophisticated flavour and depth . Duck confit graces the plate on a smear of funky black garlic , while roasted cauliflower is paired with wedges of apple and placed on a puree of cauliflower imbued with a red curry kick . Soft shell crab luxuriates in a sauce of its own broth , and roasted crimini mushrooms draped in truffle aioli bring earthy depth to a stack of flatbread and crispy chickpeas .
Even bar snack inspired offerings deserve rave reviews , like a mix of smoked nuts that arrive , still warm , in a heaping , fragrant bowl , slick with slightly floral oil and sea salt . Roasted warm olives electrified with a spicy pop of pepper are almost too addictive for sharing .
From the first plate to grace the table to the last , Enoteca presents a carefully crafted symphony of flavour that hits all the right notes .
Enoteca is open Tu-Thu 5 pm-11 pm , Fri & Sat 5 pm-2 am , and Sun 5 pm-11 pm .
FOOD EVOLUTION Neighbourhood . North Kildonan Address ........ 2015 Main St Phone ........ 204-284-7275 Entrées ............$ 13- $ 25
The city ’ s second largest park , famed for its summer stage productions , has been absent of food service to speak of , until this year . In fact , Food Evolution might be considered a culinary gift to the city ’ s North End , which has evaded entrepreneurial advances influencing how and what we eat . Judging from the multi-generational crowd filling the open concept room , this newest Wow ! Hospitality restaurant is rewarding the patience of a community ripe with anticipation .
As the name suggests , food is changing , and under the tutelage of imaginative chef Michael Dacquisto , old is what is new – and exciting . Dacquisto ’ s experience cooking regional cuisine goes back to days helming the kitchen at Green Gates , one of the city ’ s first regional cuisine focused dining destinations . More than 15 years later , interpretations of local fare are trending more furiously than ever , and staples from the kitchens of Manitoba homes are appearing in fresh , playful ways .
It stands to reason that Manitoba Regional Cuisine – food that reflects its land and its people – would take many forms across this city . While our prairie province produces a plethora of ingredients for chefs to play with , an ever-evolving population bolstered by immigration provides plenty of inspiration . The more elusive , yet essential ingredient for restaurant success is an ability to identify the spirit of its neighbourhood .
Food Evolution does just this , a beacon in the centre of North
54 ciao ! / dec / jan / two thousand fourteen