NU buyer's magazine, Scandinavian edition jan 21 NU no 2 January/February 2021 | Page 114

AW21 / 22

TAILORED UTILITY
ECCO
HUST & CLAIRE
MINIATURE
HUMMEL KIDS
MEXX
VIKING
BUNDGAARD
KIDS UP
MODEBRANCHEN . · ISSUE NO 02 · 2021 · 1 2
TAILORED UTILITY Utility-inspiration har været en vigtig tendens i modebilledet et stykke tid , og det nye i dette trendtema er , at utility-detaljerne her kombineres med det konfektionerede , formelle look . - Stilen bliver dermed et raffineret suit-upudtryk til både drenge og piger , og at moden er ens til begge køn tilfører et moderne ” gender blurred ”-look, hvor det maskuline islæt blandes med det feminine . Hos drengene ser vi , at de sporty detaljer nedtones til fordel for outdoor utility-elementer i form af quiltninger , påsyede lommer , flere lag af beklædning , dele af tøjet , der bruges med vrangen ud , lynlåse ved skrålommer på jakker , samt udpræget brug af uld og dun som materiale , uddyber Anja Bisgaard Gaede om tendensen . Selve konstruktionen er i fokus i Tailored Utility-temaet , hvor der blandt andet arbejdes med asymmetri og cut out-teknikker . Processen må gerne være tydelig for øjet i det færdige stykke beklædning . - Silhuetten er ofte overdimensioneret , især
i de typiske vinter-styles med anvendelse af strik og quilt . Hele designet reflekterer en balance mellem ” utility ” og ” tailored ”, konstaterer trendeksperten . Hun tilføjer , at de brune nuancer fra helt lys brun til dyb mørk med et let rødligt skær samt den klassiske grå er vigtige farver i denne trendretning sammen med en række grønlige farver inspireret af naturen - fra et støvet , dyb pastelgrøn over khaki-grønne toner til en klar blågrøn farve . Flere grønne farver anvendes gerne i samme outfit .
TAILORED UTILITY The utility inspiration has been an important tendency in fashion for a while , and the new thing in this trend theme is that the utility details are combined with a formal look . - In that way , the style gets a refined suited up look for both girls and boys , and the fact that the style is the same for both genders adds a modern “ gender blurred ” look where the masculine is mixed with the feminine . The sporty details are toned down , with outdoor utility elements such as quilting , sewn
on pockets , several layers of clothing , parts of items being turned inside out , zippers on angled jacket pockets as well as extensive use of wool and down taking their place , expands Anja Bisgaard Gaede about the trend . The construction itself is in focus in the Tailored Utility theme with elements such as asymmetry and cut-out techniques . The process is not hidden away but is displayed proudly in the final piece of clothing . - The silhouette is often oversized , especially in the typical winter styles with knitwear and quilt . The whole design reflects a balance between “ utility ” and “ tailored ”, states Anja Bisgaard Gaede . She adds that brown colour nuances from a very light brown to a deep , dark brown with a reddish tinge as well as the classical grey are important colours in the trend . As is a range of green colours inspired by nature — from a dusty , deep pastel green over khaki-green tones to a clear blue-green . Several different green colours are often used in the same outfit .