Development Programme wrote a report on the opportunities for tourism in the Maldives . They concluded there were none : “ Don ’ t even bother trying ; the obstacles are too big .” Sounds unbelievable , but at the time , the Maldives didn ’ t have a bank . Or an airport . Or electricity on the islands . Or even telephone communication . And the only way to get around was by sailing very slowly in a traditional boat called a dhoni .
A chance meeting in Sri Lanka of an Italian , George Corbin , who hadn ’ t read the report , and a Maldivian , Ahmed Naseem , provided the birth of the Maldives tourism industry that last year welcomed over 1 million visitors .
On October 28 , 1972 , the first paying guests arrived . The Italian group stayed in rooms built on a local island renamed Kurumba ( a young coconut ). The island still exists as a resort , but the facilities have vastly improved . In 1972 , the walls of each room were made of coral , the beams of coconut wood , and the roofs were palm-thatched . Each room had a bed , wardrobe , luggage rack , and dressing table — none of the facilities resort guests demand today . Drinking water was rainwater or from a well . Meals were basic a menu of tuna curry , rice , coconut , and bananas .
For many years , travel brochures boasted of “ hot and cold water ”— some still do ! Air conditioning was a step up from the ceiling fan . Desalination plants ended saltwater showers and swimming pools . Rooms became villas , food became cuisine , spas arrived , followed by wine cellars and underwater dining . Suddenly , the Maldives became a destination that , for many , was just a dream or their reward for a substantial lottery win ! And that is where the introduction of local island tourism came to the rescue in 2011 , offering an affordable alternative to the luxury resorts and the chance for travelers to experience the real Maldives .
Local Culture
The local islands close to Malé were the first to benefit from the advent of local guesthouses ; their ease of proximity to the capital and the international airport allowed transfer costs to be kept at a minimum .
When I first arrived , no speedboat network existed between local islands , and therefore , we would island hop by ferry . You could sit up top and watch local islands and resorts pass ; if lucky , you spotted dolphins . Or you could sit inside with the locals returning from a shopping trip to Malé . While it would be very unusual to share your seat with any live animals , more often than not , there will be a few motorcycles , a mattress or two , boxes , and bags of unknown purchases . On one of my first ferry journeys , I sat on the roof traveling from Malé to Himmufushi , a 90-minute journey . Three local women chatted with me , eager to learn where I was going and what I was doing , eager to teach me a few local words of Dhivehi and perhaps marry me off to one of their sons !
You can never fault the friendliness and hospitality of Maldivians . Nothing is too much trouble for them .
Sitting in the home of a local family for dinner can be a humbling experience . We encourage the local families we work with to sit and eat with our guests . On my initial visits to a local home , I would be provided with an array of food , enough to feed a small army , but as I sat and stuffed my face , the family would sit and watch me , and no amount of encouragement would get them to join me ! Any young children at first can be a little shy of a group of strangers , but they soon come out from behind their mothers ’ legs and , more often than not , end up sitting on someone ’ s knee .
The older generation sometimes may not be able to speak English . Still , they will do their utmost to understand your sign language , which , as you can imagine , generally
18 Travel + Lifestyle